Show Notes for Episode 108: Food Markets in Paris

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Categories: First Time in Paris, French Food & Wine, Paris

Discussed in this Episode

  • Bastille Market Paris
  • Batignoles Market Paris
  • Farmer's Markets in Paris
  • Les Halles de Paris
  • Open-Air Markets in Paris
  • Raspail Market Paris
  • Le Halles de Paris
  • marché Ornano (18th)
  • marché des Batignoles (border of 8th and 17th)
  • marché Raspail
  • Solo travel in France
Food Markets and Craft Beer in Paris

[4″00′] Emily introduces herself and her blog, Paris Paysanne, which she started in 2010.

[9″00′] We discuss the reasons why it’s difficult for farmers to both produce and sell the food at the market. A new effort from farmers to rent a store dedicated to sell local production. AMAP (Association pour le maintient d’une agriculture paysanne). Deliveries of “panier de légumes” from a local farmer.

Food Markets in Paris

[13″00′] Genuine French farmers who are not marketers sometimes bring out some of the ugliest displays because their craft is farming, not marketing. Don’t be turned off by dirty vegetables, they are often the tastiest!

[14″00′] Raspail and Batignoles Food Markets

The largest all-organic food markets of Paris are Raspail (Sunday, this is where you’ll find Valérie and her “Au régal” muffins) and Batignolles  (Saturday, bigger one of the two, not quite as crowded). They have a lot of the same vendors, which includes producers. Those are markets that attract enough visitors that a lot of the vendors speak English.

[20″40′] The Ornano Food Market

(Tuesdays, Fridays and Sundays).  At the intersection of Blvd Ornano and Blvd Barbès which has a reputation for a place where tourists don’t go but where Emily thinks it’s good to explore. This is where three notable establishments are found: Brasserie de la goute d’or (Paris’ first brewery within the city limits), Café Lomi also nearby, as well as Le Supercoin (French artisanal beers).

This is a market where you can find all sorts imported food for folks who like world foods. Jean-Michel Delay is the farmer Emily knows there, he was one of the first to sell Kale in Paris. The 18th is becoming the place where people go to find good beer in Paris.  Another example of that is a place called A la bière comme à la bière (probably a pun on the French expression “à la guerre comme à la guerre” which means let’s rough it), one more with craft beers and Spanish tapas called El Tast.

[24″20′] Craft Beer in Paris

Emily is a fan of craft beers and even brews her own. One of the things she likes about the 18th arrondissement is that is becoming the craft beer capital of the city.  Great beer places are A la bière comme à la bière (probably a pun on the French expression “à la guerre comme à la guerre” which means let’s rough it), one more with craft beers and Spanish tapas called El Tast.

French craft beer are undergoing a lot of American influence. They used to be malty, but now Anglo influence is bringing in more hops and IPA influence with more startling beers. What’s funny is that now American beers are going more seasonal (bière de saison) and northern France style of brewing which isn’t as startling to most beer drinkers. The 3rd Paris Beer Week is taking place as this episode is released.

[28″00′] Marché Bastille

This market is in the 11th arrondissement, close to the 4th and the Marais, so it would be fairly easy for visitors to go visit it without too much of a time commitment. This is also a nice place to go eat some crêpes from a vendor from Brittany that sells “crêpe aux saucisses” (I should have interjected “whaaaat?” I never heard of that!) Markets are a great place to buy some fruit to enjoy in your hotel even if you don’t have a kitchen. French peaches and fruit is to die for! Melons de Cavaillon are also to die for, they are from Provence, but you can buy them all over France.

[32″40′] Recipes from Emily’s Book

Croques Monsieur: you need to make a béchamel for croques monsieur. It’s intimidating to a lot of Americans, but it’s really easy once you’ve tried it. Jambon de Paris is 1000% better than any ham that Annie has tried in America. Sorry, America, your hams are not as good. Croques monsieur is very good without ham too! You can make a croque monsieur either in a sandwich maker or the oven. It will look more French with the béchamel and cheese on top, which you can only do in an oven.

Cheese Fondue: a great meal for company because it’s slow and delicious. This is the kind of meal that makes people happy. In the US it’s hard to find the cheeses that are called for in Fondue, sometimes even if you’re willing to pay a lot of money. Annie has made Fondue with all sorts of cheeses and it works! The important thing is to have 3 cheeses that will melt well, some good bread, and some good wine and you’re good to go! You do need a pot that will keep the cheese at the right temperature, but that’s it, pretty much! Fondue Pot Recommendation. Fondue is a sit-down dinner that does not require that much effort. You can make a nice salad, maybe a fruit salad for dessert, and a fondue and everybody will be thrilled!

Swiss Chard Gratin: really easy, with a béchamel, cheese, wholesome, but really easy to make. Boiled Swiss Chard is really boring and bland, but if you add it to a basic quiche recipe it’ll be fantastic.

Oeuf en cocotte: this makes for a really easy option for an egg dish for a brunch for instance.  Cream, salt and pepper, add a bit of foie gras or truffle or any fragrant mushroom. Start with a ramequin, some good quality salted butter, foie gras or mushrooms, one or two eggs, some cream, and a tiny bit of cheese. Bake (not too much, watch your eggs so you don’t overcook them!)

Annie’s home-made vinaigrette: start with mustard, whisk oil in slowly, a bit of salt and pepper, then a bit of vinaigrette. This goes really well with butter lettuce or steamed leaks.

Emily’s Site is Paris Paysanne and her book is My Paris Market Cookbook

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Categories: First Time in Paris, French Food & Wine, Paris