Table of Contents for this Episode
Categories: Active Vacations in France, Occitanie, Toulouse Area
550 Hiking the Chemin du Puy and the Célé Valley with Rowena Sjovall (June 15)
[00:00:15] Introduction and Greetings
Annie: This is Join Us in France, episode 550, cinq cent cinquante.
Annie: Bonjour, I’m Annie Sargent and Join Us in France is the podcast where we take a conversational journey through the beauty, culture, and flavors of France.
[00:00:31] Today on the podcast
Annie: Today, I bring you a conversation with Rowena Sjoval about her incredible journey hiking the Chemin du Puy and the Célé Valley.
Annie: Tune in to hear about the challenges, the stunning landscape, and practical tips for anyone considering this awe-inspiring hike adventure.
Annie: This is all about perseverance and discovery, as are most hikes, right?
[00:00:59] Podcast supporters
Annie: This podcast runs on chocolatine, caffeine, and the support of lovely humans like you. You book itinerary consults, take my VoiceMap tours, ride shotgun in my electric car, come to the boot camp, or pledge a few Euros a month on Patreon, and I love you for it.
Annie: Want to keep me going and skip the ads? There’s a link for that in the show notes as well. Head to joinusinfrance.com/boutique for everything else, and merci beaucoup.
[00:01:32] The Magazine segment
Annie: For the magazine part of the podcast after my chat with Rowena today, I discuss swimming in the Seine. Yes, this summer 2025 2025, in Paris.
Annie: Being a notable chicken, I wouldn’t do it, but surely some of you intrepid travelers will jump right in?
Annie: You will find all the links and full episode transcripts on the page that lists all episodes by month at joinusinfrance.com/episodes. And if you’d like a handy summary of the conversation with all the useful links, subscribe to the newsletter at joinusinfrance.com/newsletter. It’s the best way to stay in the loop.
[00:02:25] Annie and Rowena
Annie Sargent: Bonjour, Rowena Sjoval, and welcome to Join Us in France.
Rowena Sjoval: Bonjour Annie.
Annie Sargent: Lovely to see you. So you were at the bootcamp, so we know each other.
Annie Sargent: And after the bootcamp, you came back to France to do something absolutely crazy that a lot of people do though, so you’re not crazy.
Rowena Sjoval: A lot of French people do.
Annie Sargent: Yes, a lot of French people do. A lot of visitors from all over the world.
Rowena Sjoval: Ah, I think so. Yeah, but I didn’t meet many. I didn’t meet any of them. Maybe one Korean couple at the very beginning of what we’re going to talk about today and the rest, I was literally the only American that I had come across.
Annie Sargent: Interesting.
Rowena Sjoval: Maybe the time of year.
[00:03:11] The Crazy Adventure Begins
Annie Sargent: Tell us what crazy thing you did and what motivated you to do this and where did you start, where did you end, all of it.
Rowena Sjoval: Yeah, so, this past September, I had walked the Chemin du Puy-en-Velay, I guess it’s called many, many different ways, Le Puy-en-Velay, Via Podiancy, or, you know, the easiest one is the GR65, soixante cinq. It is one of the four French pilgrimage route that connects to the Compostela, one of the Caminos, which is the… three of the four connects to the Camino Francais, and then the other one I think connects a little bit further south from it.
Rowena Sjoval: Anyhow, so I turned 55 last year, prior to that…
Annie Sargent: Young one, young one.
Rowena Sjoval: I wanted to do something really special and something that I was going to remember for a while for my 55th birthday. So I just dug in, and dug in, and then I remembered when I was in Lyon, France, Lyon, in April 2023,I had come across right in front of the cathedral, I had come across a marking for the Camino.
Rowena Sjoval: It’s this, like a metal marking for the seashell, or it looks like a seashell. So what I did, and I remembered that, so I Googled it to see, okay, where was this going to lead me to?
Rowena Sjoval: Although back in 2017, I had planned to walk part of the Camino or with a couple of friends from high school, but that fell through.
Rowena Sjoval: So that’s why I kind of like thought about that because it’s always been in the back of my head.
Annie Sargent: Yeah, you picked it up where you left off.
Rowena Sjoval: Yeah, so when I researched where that marker led me to, and that’s how I discovered the Le Puy-en-Velay, and so, that’s it!
Annie Sargent: You decided to do it.
Rowena Sjoval: Yeah, literally, I was in the shower when I thought about it, and I got out of the shower, I told my husband, I know what I’m going to do for my 55th birthday, I’m walking across France, and you can come with, but if not, that’s fine, I can do it by myself.
Annie Sargent: And what did you do? What, did he go or no?
Rowena Sjoval: He did end up going with me and walked the first five days of the whole thing. So yeah, I did it. I planned it all. I got it all planned before the boot bootcamp. And then when we were in one of our calls at the bootcamp, you had mentioned that we are going to visit Pech Merle and also Saint-Cirq Lapopie, and I think I got so excited, I remember getting so excited because I had also planned to get off the trail, the GR 65 and walk the Célé Valley,which is the valley along the Lot.
Rowena Sjoval: And that’s what we are going to talk today. You know, I was so happy that it gave me a glimpse of what I was going, I have yet to see more of what I have yet to see.
Annie Sargent: Yes.
[00:06:27] Planning the Journey
Annie Sargent: So how did you plan this trip? I mean, I know for the Camino, there’s apps, there’s books, but the Célé Valley, are there books and things?
Rowena Sjoval: Yes, there are books and also there are apps. And there’s also a couple of Facebook groups that is dedicated to that route.
Rowena Sjoval: So I went on there too. And I used a book, a guidebook called Miam Miam Dodo.
Annie Sargent: Yes.
Rowena Sjoval: Which is Eat… What is it? Eat, eat, sleep?
Annie Sargent: Yes. Yes. It’s eat and sleep because Miam Miam is oh, I want to eat, and dodo is I want to sleep.
Rowena Sjoval: Yeah. So, Miam Miam Dodo puts out all these guidebooks and one of them is for the Célé Valley. But I had to wait to get it because with my research, I found out that their guides are, they get updated every year. It’s a book, but they update the book every year because that reflects, perhaps what gîte had closed or what had new ones that had reopened, you know, difference in prices or the different offerings that a gîte might have.
Rowena Sjoval: I got that and then also I just like, from that, I was able to, because I planned everything on my own, so I was able to plan my stages as far as how far I’m going to walk, and also where I’m going to stay.
Rowena Sjoval: And then also like little bits of information, like, okay, where is there going to be water access, because I didn’t want to carry… Water is heavy, because I also carried my own pack. It also gives you information, whether the gîte, you know, speaks English, Spanish, German, all that stuff.
Rowena Sjoval: Or if they provide demi pension or, you know, you’re on your own.
Annie Sargent: Yeah, demi pension is meals.
Rowena Sjoval: Yes. Yes. And it’s usually a dinner and breakfast, but most of them did, if it’s not a demi pension, there is breakfast or some semblance of breakfast, which is great.
[00:08:41] Navigating the Trail
Rowena Sjoval: So I use that, and then as far as app, I use an app called Komoot, which is a hiking app, and before I left, I just downloaded, I did it for each of my daily stages, I downloaded it, you know, it kind of have like kind of a backup, but the trail itself, the signage is so great, you cannot get lost.
Annie Sargent: That’s cool.
Rowena Sjoval: Right? Literally, like, for me, because I’ve watched some YouTube videos right before, and I’ve seen people that have said that they had taken another trail off of Le Puy, because there is another trail that starts in Le Puy, which is the Stevenson, but it’s not a pilgrimage trail. In a couple of videos people had taking that route, and after walking two, three hours later, they realized they were on the wrong trail.
Annie Sargent: So that one is harder to follow.
Rowena Sjoval: No, it’s not. It’s just, you just got to pay attention to the signage. Because somehow a lot of the American YouTubers that I saw that was talking about the signage, they assume that the GR 65 is just the red and white.
Rowena Sjoval: As long as you follow the red and white, you’re fine. No, you have to follow the red and white and the correct number.
Annie Sargent: Mm hmm.
Rowena Sjoval: So, for Le Puy, it was the 65.
Annie Sargent: Right. And Komoot has, I mean, the app will show you as you walk, like, you’re a point on the map, you can see where you’re going.
Rowena Sjoval: Yes, you can see where you’re going as well as different, maybe, off trails or roads that are nearby. And that is great because it helps you prepare.There’s only one day where I had to take a taxi because the path was flooded, getting into the trail was flooded, and it’s like, I’m not going to cross that flood. And I ended up having to walk along a busy road. And it’s not just a little country road. It was a main road. It was outside of the village called Navarangue.
Annie Sargent: Okay.
Rowena Sjoval: But this is already past the Célé Valley. But with the Komoot, it gives you, it tells you all the other stuff there, so in case you have to cut or something, so it’s really great.
Rowena Sjoval: And you know, and what I did is I downloaded the map before I left. So it was already saved. So I don’t need Wi-Fi or anything to run the app, you know, to follow the map that I had.
Annie Sargent: Yeah, and I think Miam Miam Dodo is also an app.
Rowena Sjoval: Miam Miam Dodo, they do have an app that started as a… they had one and then they discontinued it.
Annie Sargent: Oh, is that right?
Rowena Sjoval: Yeah. And then they restart. I don’t think it’s an app, but last year they made their guide available with their proprietary ebook.
Annie Sargent: Okay.
Rowena Sjoval: But yeah, but even Miam Miam Dodo also, it kind of gives you an idea, you know, what’s around there, like if there’s a road or something, I don’t know if you can see it, like they’re marked yellow and stuff.
Annie Sargent: Yes, yes, yes. So, what time of year did you decide to walk this? You said at the beginning, I forgot already.
Rowena Sjoval: September, so I walked in September. I started from Le Puy on September 5th, then total, I finished on the 20th of October.
Annie Sargent: Mmm, wow, that was a long time.
Rowena Sjoval: It was a long time, it was…
Annie Sargent: That was a long walk.
Rowena Sjoval: Yeah, total walking of 41 days. And then adding the maybe five, five or so days of what I call rest day, where I just stayed there an extra day, didn’t walk or anything.
[00:12:45] Challenges and Perseverance
Annie Sargent: And you ran into a lot of rain, it seems to me. I mean, this year was wet.
Rowena Sjoval: Yes, because when I was reading some posts from people that have walked the previous two years, they said weather was perfect, maybe it rained a little bit one day and that was it.
Rowena Sjoval: But for me, it was almost every three days, I’ve had some kind of rain, which made the trails, a lot of the trails, very muddy and slippery.
Annie Sargent: Yeah. Yeah. That’s a problem. And you didn’t give up. I kept, be cause you created a Facebook group to follow your adventures. And I kept seeing the weather and your photos and all, oh, poor thing. I felt sorry for you, but you never gave up. Like you were just…
Rowena Sjoval: No, I didn’t give up, it was like one of those things, it’s like, just, you know, I just got to keep on taking one step at a time.
Annie Sargent: Yeah, yeah. You’re amazing.
Rowena Sjoval: And I believe Helena from the bootcamp, I think she said that, she said it well, she said, you know, don’t focus on something like, don’t focus on the whole distance, just focus on the bush in front of you, walk to there, and then next focus on the tree in front of you.
Annie Sargent: Huh. She’s a wise one, Helena.
Rowena Sjoval: Yeah, she is. And in fact, when I met her, I had just gone to a bookstore in Toulouse to get a map, an actual paper map because I love paper maps, so I wanted as a backup, a paper map.
Annie Sargent: Yeah.
Rowena Sjoval: And that’s when we got to talking and she had shared with me that she had walked the Camino Francais years ago, so we kind of, yeah, we had something in common, but yeah.
Annie Sargent: That’s very cool. How big was your pack?
Rowena Sjoval: My pack was, it was a 41 liter pack, but I did not fill it full. As far as the weight, probably the heaviest with the water was about 8 kilograms, so 16 pounds with water, with my full supply of water.
Annie Sargent: Right, but you didn’t send the pack ahead in a car or something.
Rowena Sjoval: No, actually I ended up maybe three times, three or four occasions, but it was towards the end where I emptied my pack a little bit, like half of it. I just happened to bring a really lightweight and thin packable duffel bag, because my plan was after, you know, after this whole walk, I had stopped in Bordeaux and if I buy something and also my walking poles, I was going to stick it in there so I can check it in.
Rowena Sjoval: So I had that in my pack and so I would just fill that, on those three or four days that I had had it, part of my load sent ahead of me. So it worked out. Yeah. Because those service are available. And, you know, like I said, out of the 41 walking days, I only had it carried three or four times.
Rowena Sjoval: And that is because one, I think on one day I was going to have to do like 27, almost 28 kilometers. And this was towards the end. I always told myself that, this is how I planned it too, that I don’t want to be, I want to arrive where I’m going to spend the night by no later than 5:30, because I don’t want to be stuck there out, you know, in the dark. And then towards October also, you know…
Annie Sargent: Starts getting dark earlier.
Rowena Sjoval: It starts getting dark earlier and it doesn’t start getting light till later, like 8 o’clock. There was, a couple of times towards the end, we waited until 8 o’clock, or I mean 8:30 to leave. 9 o’clock.
Rowena Sjoval: Yeah, because between the rain, the clouds, and just the sun just, you know, it’s just not shining.
Annie Sargent: Yeah. Yeah.
Annie Sargent: And those services, you don’t have to plan ahead. You can just, like at the stop where you are tonight, they can tell you who can move your pack.
Rowena Sjoval: That is correct. Yeah, but also, there are three services, at least for the Chemin Le Puy, there are three different luggage services, or transport services, because they also will transport people if you don’t feel like walking.
Annie Sargent: Yeah. Well, yeah, if you twist your ankle, you know, you might need to take some rest.
Rowena Sjoval: Yeah, because I have met people that have decided to take a bus to the next one, or at least partial.
Rowena Sjoval: So there’s three of them, and La Malle Postale, the name of it, the first one, only services from Le Puy until I believe Cahors, and then after thata service called Claudine, something, I can’t remember… something Claudine.
Rowena Sjoval: I’ll send you the name.
Annie Sargent: Yeah, send me the link and I’ll put it in the show notes.
Rowena Sjoval: Yeah, so Claudine. Then services from Cahors until Saint Jean Pied de Port.
Annie Sargent: Okay.
Rowena Sjoval: And Le MalPostale services the Célé, part of the Célé Valley, I believe, as well as Claudine.
Rowena Sjoval: But they stopped their service on October 15. So if you’re walking beyond October 15, there is a third service called La Valise Saint Jacques, and they also provide that, and they are all the same price, 10 euros.
Rowena Sjoval: And there’s a limit, you cannot send anything, I believe, you cannot send anything more than 10 kilograms, I believe.
Annie Sargent: Okay.
Rowena Sjoval: Yeah, it’s just specifically for people that are walking.
Annie Sargent: Yeah. Yeah. Yeah.
Rowena Sjoval: Yeah, so when I walked the Célé Valley, actually I used the service once along the Célé Valley.
Annie Sargent: Now that we’ve gotten all this general stuff out of the way, let’s talk about the Célé Valley and what you enjoyed there.
[00:18:48] Starting point
Annie Sargent: Where did you start the section on the Célé Valley?
Rowena Sjoval: So I started in Rocamadour, which is the typical starting of the Célé Valley. So from Rocamadour, it took me, I gave myself six days, six walking days. Because, you know, when I, even with my regular hiking, I’m like someone who’s in a museum when I hike. I treat the trail like an art gallery, or actually like a gallery.
Rowena Sjoval: I’m just like enjoying everything. So I wanted to enjoy all of it. So from the Figeac, actually, I also went to Rocamadour, but I took a train to Rocamadour, and then made that, I think it was a five kilometer walk from the train station to Rocamadour. And then I went back to Figeac, then the next day I left for the Célé Valley.
Rowena Sjoval: From Figeac, I walk about that 12 kilometers to a village called Béduer.
Rowena Sjoval: Compared to the other walks I did, it was a relatively shorter walk.
Annie Sargent: Sure. Sure. Yeah, you have been walking further distances before.
Rowena Sjoval: Yeah. By that time I have already walked for 13 days. So two weeks to Béduer. So it’s just this little tiny village and I got there early and it’s funny, you know, like I knew I was going to get there early because a lot of the places, they don’t want you getting there until like three o’clock, four o’clock.
Annie Sargent: Right, they don’t open till…
Rowena Sjoval: Yeah. I knew I was going to get there early, so I was really taking my time and I, but I did message my host to ask if, you know, if I can get there earlier, but it didn’t heard, so I just kept on walking, walking.And this path, actually, this is where I had to split up with other people that I had probably walked with, that are walking the Le Puy, because from this path, I have to go the opposite direction that they are to continue on.
Annie Sargent: Huh. Now I found it. Okay, okay. Oh, and there’s a château there.
Rowena Sjoval: Yes, but the château is on the opposite direction, so I didn’t get to see.
Annie Sargent: Ah, okay. Ah, well.
Rowena Sjoval: Yeah, there is a cemetery there, which the funny thing is when I was leaving the next day to continue, you know, to leave Béduer, I kind of like looked at my map, I was like, it’s leading me to the cemetery, I don’t like that, right?
Annie Sargent: I’m not ready for that. I am not dying yet. Ha ha ha.
Rowena Sjoval: Yeah, Béduer, just a small town, and it is actually the last village off of the GR65 before you split off and take 36, before I take the 36th to take me to along the Célé and then, you know, to, because I had also gone to Saint-Cirq-Lapopie.
Annie Sargent: Yeah.
Rowena Sjoval: But, it’s funny because like I said, it was a short day for me, so I was just taking my time.
Rowena Sjoval: So, you know, I would, if I find a nice shade that called to me, I’m there.
Rowena Sjoval: And about like maybe three kilometers finally I heard from my hostess and she said, just come on over because it was going to start raining that afternoon.
Rowena Sjoval: And I was walking and there was this couple that crept up behind me and they started talking to me in French.
Rowena Sjoval: So, you know, I can speak a little bit, right? Just enough.
Annie Sargent: Yeah, yeah. Yeah.
Rowena Sjoval: I was talking. And then, you know, after a while, I noticed that, you know, there was kind of like an accent to their French, but I’m thinking, oh, maybe they’re from a different region in France, right?
Rowena Sjoval: I found out they were British and we got a laugh out of that.
Annie Sargent: Ha. Ha. Ha.
Rowena Sjoval: They were trying to throw me off, what was their name? Geraldine and Duncan.
Annie Sargent: Very good.
Rowena Sjoval: And then we got, just got to talking, got to laughing that, you know, we actually passed our gîte for the night. We found out we were staying at the same place for the night too.
Annie Sargent: Oh, cool! Ha ha ha.
Rowena Sjoval: Yeah, so we end up with this gîte called L’Hirondelle…
Annie Sargent: yes?
Rowena Sjoval: Like a swallow, I think. I think that’s the name.
Rowena Sjoval:
Annie Sargent: It’s a swallow, so L’Hirondelle du Bourg or something?
Rowena Sjoval: L’Hirondelle du Bourg, yeah, yeah, Isabelle.
Annie Sargent: I can see it on the map.
Rowena Sjoval: Oh yeah, yeah, Isabelle is the name of the hostess, and she has a dog named Saxo.
Annie Sargent: Ok.
Rowena Sjoval: That’s the thing, you stay at these places, you’re with the pets.
Annie Sargent: Ha ha ha ha ha ha
Rowena Sjoval: And, there was another couple that stayed with us. So there was five of us that was staying with her that night.
Rowena Sjoval: And the other couple was from South Korea. And we had a good chat and we all found out that, you know, even though we all spoke different languages or whatever, you know, but we all love the show, The Squid Game.
Annie Sargent: Ha. There you go.
Rowena Sjoval: Right? So you find out, you know, things in common.
Annie Sargent: Yeah, you talk to people. Yeah.
Rowena Sjoval: Yeah. So we had a wonderful dinner that night. And in fact, I remember walking in the house, I was like, I could smell whatever she was cooking was like, so good. And I remember, I think I had either called my husband or texted him and it’s like, whatever this lady is cooking, I need to eat now.
Rowena Sjoval: Can’t stand the smell because it’s so good. So it ended up to be like chicken.
Annie Sargent: Yeah, but you were hungry. When you walk like that, you must get hungry.
Rowena Sjoval: Yeah. And you know, I did the French dinner, I should say, of, you know, your entree, which sometimes it’s soup or salad, and or salad. Then your main course, cheese, and then dessert. I normally don’t eat dessert, but I ate dessert every night.
Annie Sargent: Good for you. That’s how life should be lived.
Rowena Sjoval: Yeah, the cheese I had to pass because I get so full and I get so, you know, I feel so bloated by it that I was like, no, I’m going to walk the next day.
Annie Sargent: Yeah, yeah. That’s cool.
(Mid-roll ad spot)
Annie Sargent: So what was your next stop?
Rowena Sjoval: So after that, from Béduer, I walked about 17 and a half kilometers.
Annie Sargent: Ooh, that was a serious day.
Rowena Sjoval: That was, yeah, I knew it was going to be a long day, and that’s the first time I had part of my pack carried.
Annie Sargent: Uh huh.
Rowena Sjoval: Because it was raining, it was going to rain that day, and we found out the night before that it was going to be a heavy rain, not just me, but the other walkers had part of their packs sent. It just makes it easier to walk faster.
Rowena Sjoval: I walked a little over 17 kilometers to a very tiny village, another tiny village called Brengues, B-R-E-N-G-U-E-S.
Annie Sargent: I got the wrong one. It’s in the other direction. That’s past Lyon.
Annie Sargent: Yeah, so there’s a Brengues and there’s a Brengues Cabreret.
Rowena Sjoval: Yeah. Brengues Cabreret.
Annie Sargent: Right. In that area, there’s Cabreret a lot of things.
Rowena Sjoval: Yeah. So, it was like, literally rained for me.
Annie Sargent: All right, and that’s not far from Bouziès where Pêche Merle is.
Rowena Sjoval: No, no, no, no, no. Yeah. You’re right.
Annie Sargent: But you had been to Pêche Merle with a Bootcamp, so I suppose you didn’t go.
Rowena Sjoval: Yeah. So, this is when I saw that cemetery. I was like, I don’t want to go through there. Because there was a moment in there where I thought I was like, you know, I was looking at Komoot and it’s telling me that I had missed my turn and I was like, where is the trail entrance? But it was kind of, there was a lot of growth.
Rowena Sjoval: So it was a little hidden and it was not far from the cemetery. That’s why it was guiding me towards the cemetery.
Annie Sargent: And you were trying to avoid the cemetery.
Rowena Sjoval: And on this route, I actually passed through a small village called Corn, like, just like how it is C-O-R-N.
Rowena Sjoval: And there was a lot of corn, cornfields everywhere. And it was actually in this route that I started seeing people that were walking the opposite, coming from the opposite direction.
[00:27:14] Navigating Through Cornfields
Rowena Sjoval: Because usually in Le Puy, everybody’s going the same direction. So you really don’t run into someone going, you know, the opposite direction.
Annie Sargent: Interesting.
Rowena Sjoval: So I went through, you know, all these, like literally everything, a lot of it was corn. I’m thinking, I’m playing a game in my head because I knew it was going to be a long walk. It’s like, Children of the Corn, I could think of everything. I was thinking of everything that was corn related, you know, even Field of Dreams.
Rowena Sjoval: Okay, is somebody going to come out of the corn here, like Kevin Costner or something, and he’s going to speak to me in French, right?
Annie Sargent: That’s funny.
[00:27:51] Rainy Day Lunch and Milka Chocolate
Rowena Sjoval: It rained all day and then I remember on this path there was, it’s like I have to stop for lunch because it’s a long, but I didn’t want to like, I would always carry a can or two of those conservas, the sardines, the small cans of sardines, so that’s typically my lunch.
Rowena Sjoval: But I was like, but it’s raining, I don’t want to have to open it, get my little fork, you know, and all of that and eat it, but I had chocolate, I found my love for Milka Chocolate.
Annie Sargent: Oh, you like the Milka?
Rowena Sjoval: With the walnut. The one was with the walnut, not the plain ones, the ones with the walnuts. So I just like…
Annie Sargent: You know, in France, Milka, we buy that for children.
Rowena Sjoval: I love it. I love it. Here in the States, we do have it, but not that one with walnut.
Annie Sargent: Not the one with walnut.
Rowena Sjoval: Yeah, that’s what I had for lunch and I was just…
[00:28:44] Challenges of Finding Food and Shelter
Annie Sargent: Yeah, because I don’t see anywhere, I mean, I don’t see any villages along there where you could…
Rowena Sjoval: No, no, there isn’t. And in fact, you know, walking the Célé Valley, the villages are far and few in between. Not only that, there wasn’t really a place to even pick up, you know, like in the other villages, there’s usually a boulangerie where you can pick up a sandwich to take on the road or like a market where you can get food or anything.
Rowena Sjoval: So, you know, in my research, I learned that and that’s why, you know, I would, I had kept a couple of the sardines and also a couple of bars of Milka chocolate with walnut.
Annie Sargent: Yeah, yeah, yeah. Just in case. Yeah.
Rowena Sjoval: And some trail mix that I had picked up in Figeac. And so I had that for lunch and then, but it was raining and I just kept on walking, walking.
Rowena Sjoval: Then I go up this hill, I have passed another village called Sainte-Eulalie-d’Olt, Sainte-Eulalie-d’Olt?
Annie Sargent: Sainte-Eulalie-d’Olt? Okay. Maybe.
[00:29:43] Reaching the Hilltop and Meeting Fellow Travelers
Rowena Sjoval: Passed it and I remember going up, up, up on the hill, and as soon as I reached like the crest of the hill, it’s like the sun came out for me, so I could enjoy the view. So I was literally looking at the, you know, Sainte-Eulalie-d’Olt down. It gave me a sense of pride and fulfillment, and like, oh my goodness, I just climbed from there. I was just down there. Those are the moments, you know, every now and then you realize that, I hated having to go up, but then I realized what I hated more is actually going down.
Annie Sargent: It hurts your knees.
Rowena Sjoval: On the knees.
Rowena Sjoval: Yeah. I was there, I enjoyed it for a few minutes and then ran into, you know, actually a lady and again, walking the opposite direction. Because by the time I got up there, I would only had maybe like four kilometers from where I’m staying. So, I knew I was close, you know, I don’t have to really rush it.
Rowena Sjoval: And it’s funny, because, you know, she was coming the opposite direction. She stopped, we were there, and she’s staying down in Sainte-Eulalie-d’Olt.
Rowena Sjoval: So, I’m going from where she came from. She’s going from, to where I came from. And we jokingly said, Oh, I can smell, you know, I can smell the scent of laundry detergent, because we both needed to wash clothes. There wasn’t many places that had that, or if they had that, you’re not guaranteed with all the rain, you know, that they might not dry up.
Rowena Sjoval: You know, so you got to find somewhere. And I knew I was getting there early enough that I’ll have time to dry my clothes.
Annie Sargent: I suppose you had rain gear, but, not the best rain gear in the world. If you are in the rain all day, it’s not going to…
Rowena Sjoval: No, the only rain gear I had was really my poncho, which really helped. And Miam Miam Dodo is great because it also tells you, what gîtes or Chambre d’Hôte has a laundry facility or if there’s a laundry facility in the village. That’s how I was able to plan and I knew I was going to be able to wash clothes there.
Rowena Sjoval: It’s funny, I was like, I was coming down, coming down, but it seemed like it was forever. It was taking me forever to get down, but then I saw a sign for where I was staying, it said like 1.5 kilometer.
Rowena Sjoval: I was like, I’m still high and that’s not possible. Maybe they put the sign wrong. But as soon as I came out of the path, go like down, it was right in front of me.
Annie Sargent: Yeah, so it was right there.
Rowena Sjoval: Yeah, that’s why. Because a lot of the places I had stayed, you know, you come down the hill and then you still got to walk another kilometer or two to get to it. But this one was there.
Rowena Sjoval: And then the next one is, I walked 12 kilometers to Marcilhac-sur-Célé.
Annie Sargent: Marcilhac-sur-Célé. Yes.
[00:32:48] Exploring Troglodyte Houses
Rowena Sjoval: We were expecting rain that morning, but it didn’t rain, it was just fog, a foggy start, so it was really, you know, it was a really good walk, the trail was mostly like little stones thing, a little.
Rowena Sjoval: And then, also there was a little bit of walking on the road, but it was also, it was just to like transition from one trail to the other, a lot of the trails are like that too.
Rowena Sjoval: And it was on this stage where I saw my first troglodyte.
Annie Sargent: Aha.
Rowena Sjoval: That’s how you say it, yeah? Troglodyte?
Rowena Sjoval: Troglodyte. It was in a village called Saint Sulpice.
Annie Sargent: Mm hmm.
Rowena Sjoval: So I saw my troglodyte there, and it’s like, it’s amazing how these houses, pretty good size houses, I’m not talking about just some little shack size, but they are good size houses, you know, with four windows in the front that are just like built…
Annie Sargent: Into the wall.
Rowena Sjoval: Into the wall of the rocks, the big boulders.
Rowena Sjoval: I can only imagine how they look inside and I tried to find photos of how they look inside and they do, you know, just like how you would imagine them, you know, the ceilings are lower because the rocks are coming through there.
Rowena Sjoval: So yeah, it was beautiful.
Rowena Sjoval: So that one was like a high up there.
[00:34:07] Communal Dinners and Accommodations
Rowena Sjoval: And then, in fact, after my walk there, I had got there early enough and I found out that I’m sharing a dorm room with a Canadian and it was, Benoit was his name.
Annie Sargent: OK.
Rowena Sjoval: He spoke French, but he was able to translate for me because he was able to, you know, because I was the only American, I was the only English speaker in that gîte, there was 18 of us that stayed in that gîte.
Annie Sargent: Wow.
Rowena Sjoval: So we had a communal dinner. And a lot of the bigger gîtes, it’s usually a communal dinner. And you know, we all eat together, we eat with either, you know, the owner of the farmhouse or like, you know, a big gîte and everything.
[00:34:51] Comfort Level at the Accommodations in the Célé Valley
Annie Sargent: So what was the comfort level at places like this? Like, was it?
Rowena Sjoval: You know, comfort level is really like subjective, right?
Annie Sargent: Yes, yes.
Rowena Sjoval: So, I think, oh, should I say it? In the Célé Valley, particularly, there’s not a lot of accommodations. But the good thing is, because some of the accommodations can be just this gîtes, dorm style. But you could also make arrangements to have a private room or a room to yourself if you want.
Annie Sargent: The price is not the same, but you can.
Rowena Sjoval: The price is not the same, and actually, it was more expensive, the accommodations on the Célé was more expensive compared to all the other accommodations. And then also, if you’re okay, you know, being in a dorm, you have to be ok being in a co-ed dorm.
Annie Sargent: Yeah, yeah, yeah.
Rowena Sjoval: Yeah, because sometimes they don’t, you know…
Annie Sargent: They can’t.
Rowena Sjoval: They can’t, yeah, because they have to accommodate people that are calling in and wanting a bed for the night.
Rowena Sjoval: Because it’s so scarce there that you know, you just got to take what you have.
Rowena Sjoval: The beds are, you know, they’re okay. they’re not Marie Antoinette, I mean, they’re okay. I didn’t wake up with my back hurting. Nothing. Many provide just the sheet to cover your bed in a blanket and some of them will put out extra blanket. But what I did is I carried a sleep liner with me.
Rowena Sjoval: It’s made of silk. So I just put that. It’s like a cocoon. I just go in there so I have an extra layer, that separates me from the bed sheet and also keeps me, adds a little, you know, warmth if it gets so cold.
Annie Sargent: Did they give you pillows?
Rowena Sjoval: Yeah, there’s pillows and they’ll give you, you know, your pillowcase.
Rowena Sjoval: And there’s a routine every morning where you strip your bed, you take the pillowcase out, you put it in a basket and that’s it. And then some will give you the towels as well while others, you know, they don’t.
Annie Sargent: But you’ll see that on Miam Miam Dodo. Mm hmm.
Rowena Sjoval: Yep. It says on Miam Miam Dodo because some of them will charge for it or if you want an extra blanket, they’ll charge for it and stuff.
Rowena Sjoval: Yeah. So like I said, this was a communal dinner and this is where I got to ask the French for some reason, you guys are, you guys were interested in our election, because during that time the election was coming.
Annie Sargent: Yes, yes.
Rowena Sjoval: Yes, like every time and I was like, Oh, what do you think of, I was like, I literally had to say, I’m on a break.
Rowena Sjoval: I don’t want to think about it.
Rowena Sjoval: That’s why I’m here. I don’t want to think about it.
Annie Sargent: Yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah. I would do the same. Oh, don’t… ask me. Wrong person to ask.
Annie Sargent: Where to next?
Rowena Sjoval: From Marcilhac-sur-Célé, then I went to Cabreret at Pêche Merle.
Rowena Sjoval: So that was a 19 kilometer walk. I did not go to Pêche Merle because I was just there.
Annie Sargent: But it looks like you just walked back in the opposite direction there.
Rowena Sjoval: Yes, I was going to say that. Yeah, it was the opposite direction. So literally I came from, you know where the bathrooms are right where we entered,to go visit it? I came from that side of it.
Annie Sargent: Okay.
Rowena Sjoval: Yeah, where the trees are, like literally I was there. I was like, Oh, I’m here. Yeah. And I was like, I know there’s a bathroom here, so I’m going to use the bathroom before I move on with the trail. So yeah, I came from that side and I figured, you know what, I was just here. It’s not like they added more drawings.
Annie Sargent: No, no, no, you had seen it.
Rowena Sjoval: I didn’t go, but I did walk by it and then I literally had to go behind that. There’s a parking lot there and that’s where I picked up the trail to continue on.
Rowena Sjoval: Then that night, actually, I ended up staying at a restaurant slash gîte that night. Yeah. And I ended up having my own room. So.
Annie Sargent: Nice.
Rowena Sjoval: Nice.
Annie Sargent: Very cozy.
Rowena Sjoval: Yeah, very cozy. And I had, I think a duck, we had duck that night. Yeah. So it was very good. Yeah. Good stuff.
Annie Sargent: That’s your last night of the Céle, right?
Rowena Sjoval: No, I got two more. So from there, Cabaret to Saint-Cirq-Lapopie.
Annie Sargent: Ah, yes.
Rowena Sjoval: Yeah. So this one I had to get off the trail that I was following. Because from the 36th, I had to go to 651.
Annie Sargent: Okay.
Rowena Sjoval: So I was there, and like I said, I’ve been there before, and it’s really hard to be a tourist with a heavy pack, so I just rested in front of the tourist office.
Rowena Sjoval: And then I started walking to, I ended up staying at a hotel that night because there was nothing available at the gîte right there in the village. And then I found out the hotel was another 20 minute walk past Saint-Cirq-Lapopie.
Annie Sargent: Yeah, I’m not surprised because I don’t remember many hotels in Saint-Cirq-Lapopie.
Rowena Sjoval: No, and then, that meant for dinner I had to go back into Saint-Cirq-Lapopie.
Annie Sargent: Oh!
Rowena Sjoval: But good thing is, it’s hilly and it was dark going back to my hotel. Good thing is I walked with three other walkers that I had met on the path. So we all walked with our phone lights, together.
Annie Sargent: Yeah, yeah. yeah. Oh, that, that must not have been any fun because it’s hilly, too, and…
Rowena Sjoval: Yeah. And then the next day it was raining all day. So I had to change my route. I had to go back to Bouziès.
Annie Sargent: Bouziès. Yeah.
Rowena Sjoval: Which I forgot to say, when I left Bouziès, I walked through the Chemin de Halage.
Annie Sargent: Chemin de Halage, yes, of course, you did.
Rowena Sjoval: I did. So I walked back to it again to get back to Bouziès.
Annie Sargent: Yes, of course you did it in that direction.
Rowena Sjoval: Yeah, because originally I was going to have to take the road to get to Bear B-E-A-R. It’s the town I was going to that day, but because of the heavy rain, I decided to take the trail to go back the Chemin de Halage to Bouziès and then pick up the GR 36 again to get back on the trail.
Annie Sargent: Wow.
Rowena Sjoval: Saint-Cirq-Lapopie was on GR 651.
Annie Sargent: What an adventure you had and I mean, not only did you do the Camino, but you also did side trips like the Célé.
Annie Sargent: That’s fantastic.
[00:41:14] Advice for Future Travelers
Annie Sargent: What advice would you have for people who want to do something like this? What should they, what did you figure out that you didn’t know before?
Rowena Sjoval: Well, first of all, my advice is for people that are considering this trail is learn some French. It will go a long way. You know, learn directions, learn how to ask for food, for water, you know, whatever, learn some French. There were no English speakers on this. I just lucked out that I met two that, you know, could speak English. Don’t be intimidated by the walk. If you don’t want to carry your pack, use the services, you know? And also if you’re not feeling well, don’t push yourself. Take a rest day, you know, take a rest day, build in extra days in however many days you think you’re going to need.
Rowena Sjoval: So if you think I want to do this in 14 days, build in two or three extra days, because you just never know what can happen.
Annie Sargent: That’s really wise. Because if you have to go back because your plane’s leaving, then you don’t really have a lot of lag room.
Rowena Sjoval: Plan as if it’s going to rain, even if you look back, like historic weather, plan as if it’s going to rain, bring a poncho or whatever you like as rain gear. And layer, layer clothing.
Annie Sargent: Yeah. Did your boots give you any trouble, your feet gave you any trouble?
Rowena Sjoval: No, I came out without a blister, no blister. I have a routine every night before I go to bed, or after dinner, I would rub my feet with this cream called Healthy Feet, Dr. Miller’s Healthy Feet, I would rub it in between my toes, I would do it too, put a sock on, leave the sock, you know, just so it absorbs, because it dries out, it’s not, it doesn’t leave your feet like Vaseline does, where it’s gucky.
Rowena Sjoval: But this one, it just dries out. I sleep with my socks if I want to,if it’s not too hot. And then the next day I wore sock liners that had the individual toes, because that’s the thing, the blisters, if you keep your toes separated, prevents from, you know, the rubbing, the rubbing is what’s going to cause the blisters.
Rowena Sjoval: So I had that, and then I had my alpaca socks, and then my shoes, which I tested a few shoes until I decided on which was the right shoe and sock combination for me.
Rowena Sjoval: So I end up bringing my, they call them trail runners, so they look like running shoes, but they have a thicker threads as well, like, kind of like a cross between a hiking shoe and a running shoe.
Rowena Sjoval: So it kind of, if you think of something that if they marry up, it’s the one in between that.
Rowena Sjoval: And it lasted me the whole time. So, but by the time I arrived, Saint Jean Pied de Port and I had like, had put in about 500 miles on those shoes already. I just tossed them out because the threads were all gone.
Annie Sargent: Yeah, yeah, yeah. There’s nothing left at that point.
[00:44:15] Planning the Next Journey
Annie Sargent: So are you going to finish it up? Are you going to come back and do the rest?
Rowena Sjoval: I am. I’m still hoping I could do it this year, depending on the dates, but this year is getting to be a busy year. So, you know, if not this year, because I want to walk the same time frame I did September, I like that time of the year.
Annie Sargent: Yeah.
Rowena Sjoval: So yeah, so the next leg would be to walk the Camino Frances, which is what I was thinking about in the beginning until like, you know, I thought more and I remembered the shell that I saw.
Rowena Sjoval: So I’ll walk that to the Compostela, so across northern Spain to Santiago. And that’s about, I think that’s about a 500 mile walk, so almost close to my walk.
Annie Sargent: But it’ll take you 50 days more or less, right?
Rowena Sjoval: It’ll probably, you know what, it’s going to take me longer because my plan is, because I know now how to plan accordingly with my body and my walking pace.
Annie Sargent: Yeah.
Rowena Sjoval: And so I’m not in pain and because there is a climb right out of Saint Jean Pied de Port to the Pyrenees over. And the first four days of my walk, my husband and I were talking about like, you know, we were like, why did we do this? Because our body was in pain.
Annie Sargent: Yeah, of course.
Rowena Sjoval: Because it was out in Le Puy, it was up, down, up, down, up, down.
Rowena Sjoval: So I think what I’m going to do, or I know what I’m going to do, is I’m going to plan it back, to plan it starting maybe in a town called Aru.
Annie Sargent: Okay.
Rowena Sjoval: Or Navarrenx, and then walk to Saint Jean Pied de Port, so that by that time my body is used to, it has that walking pace, my legs is, you know, warmed up and everything, because that was my regret, you know, and I didn’t think of it until like later on, and it was already too late.
Rowena Sjoval: That I should have went ahead and crossed the Pyrenees from Saint Jean Pied de Port. I should have went ahead and crossed over to Roncevaux.
Annie Sargent: Yep, going because you were fit by then. You were ready for whatever.
Rowena Sjoval: I was ready, yeah, but by the time I, like, thought about it, one of the accommodations up there that was, I think, six kilometers past Saint Jean Pied de Port have already closed for the season, because a lot of the gîte closed for the season. And that’s the other thing that people need to consider.
Rowena Sjoval: It’s the time of the year they’re walking, a lot of them closed by October 15th, kind of same thing with the transport services. The place there was closed and then the other place just a little further down when I had called them, they didn’t have any more room.
Rowena Sjoval: They were full and they said, you can try tomorrow. And I didn’t want to chance it. Because the transportation service, the bus service going back to Saint Jean Pied de Port wasn’t running, had stopped running too for the season.
Rowena Sjoval: And I have a flight to catch back in Bordeaux, so I literally have to go back to Saint Jean Pied de Port and take a train to Bordeaux instead of going to Pamplona and things. So I had that logistics that I needed to work out.
Rowena Sjoval: So that’s what I’m going to do is backtrack about five days.
Annie Sargent: That’s probably a good idea. Just get your body in the rhythm before you hit the hills, the big hills, big, big hills.
Rowena Sjoval: Annie, it was painful. It was. I was like, I was in pain.
Annie Sargent: Oh, I believe you.
[00:47:41] The hardest day
Rowena Sjoval: The hardest day is really the second day.
Annie Sargent: Is that right?
Rowena Sjoval: Not the first day of walking. We did 13 miles the first day, Which was long, I think. Too long, especially with up, down, up, down, up, down. And then wake up the next day and your body is like hurting.
Annie Sargent: Yes. You’re like, Oh, don’t do
Rowena Sjoval: And my legs, my Florida legs were hurting. And I kept on describing to people that would ask me, like, what, you’re from Florida? How did you do the hills? I was like, I know. I was like, the hills are like Mount Everest for me.
Annie Sargent: Yeah, yeah, yeah. Yeah. Yeah.
[00:48:17] Concluding Thoughts and Farewell
Annie Sargent: Yeah, that’s how it is.
Annie Sargent: Rowena, it’s been a delight to talk to you. We really have to stop because we’ve been talking a long time. But thank you so much for sharing all of that. And it’s a delight to hear from you.
Rowena Sjoval: Thank you, Annie.
Annie Sargent: Hey, do this again and we’ll talk again.
Rowena Sjoval: Yeah. Thank you, Annie. See you later. Au revoir.
Annie Sargent: Merci beaucoup.
[00:48:45] Thank you Patrons
Annie: Again, I want to thank my patrons for giving back and supporting the show. Patrons get several exclusive rewards for doing that, you can see them at patreon.com/joinus.
Annie: A special shout-out this week to our Join Us in France champions Melanie, Dana Gschwendtner, Judy Gunn, who joined at the Groupie du Podcast yearly tier, and Madeleine, who is also a Groupie du Podcast.
Annie: Welcome back as a patron Marilyn Miller as well.
Annie: Would you join them too? You can do it for as little as two dollars a month, but if you can afford it, I would love to have you pledge more so you can have access to more of the rewards.
Annie: And to support Elyse, go to patreon.com/elysart.
Annie:
[00:49:40] Tour Reviews
Annie: Somebody left this review of my Ile de la Cite tour. This person says: "I was visiting Paris for the day by myself, and I decided I wanted to venture out and see some sights. I decided to check the app store before leaving the hotel to see if I could find some guides, and that’s how I stumbled upon VoiceMap. I am very glad I did. Annie’s tour was the one at the top that had the most reviews, and now I know why. She was excellent. The VoiceMap app is very easy to use. I love how it gives you directions to the start of the tour and gently guides you to where to go.
Annie: I enjoyed walking around with Annie, and I am already at St Regis looking for my next tour. Wish I had more time. Highly recommended."
Annie: Thank you so much. That’s wonderful to know. " I know a lot of the people who write reviews are podcast listeners, but there are also plenty of people who don’t know anything about me, who enjoy those tours.
[00:50:40] Discount for Podcast Listeners
Annie: And podcast listeners get a big discount for buying these tours from my website. It’s best for me as well, because I get to keep more of what you pay instead of giving it to Apple or Google.
Annie: But if you buy from my boutique, it’s a manual process, so don’t expect it to be instant like it would be if you were buying directly from the app.
Annie: To use your code, open VoiceMap, tap ‘Tour Codes’ at the bottom right, enter the code, and download the tour. You own it forever. Even if you change phones, just log into your VoiceMap account to access it again. The tours work without data because the audio, images, and maps are downloaded to your phone.
Annie: And GPS works anywhere, even without cell service. Best of all, you can listen in virtual playback from anywhere in the world. Perfect if Paris is not in your immediate plans. You can take me in your pocket with VoiceMap.
Annie: And if you’re planning a trip to France and want expert help, hire me as your itinerary consultant.
Annie: It’s a busy season, so book early at joinusinfrance.com/boutique. Usually, I have openings within a month, but right now it’s more like two to three months out, so don’t wait.
[00:51:54] Swimming in the Seine
Annie: Let’s talk about swimming in the Seine. If you’re visiting Paris this summer, 2025, and you’re tempted by the idea of swimming in the Seine, yes, really, then you’re in for something historic.
Annie: Starting July 5, 2025, public swimming pools will be officially open in the Seine. It’s part of the Olympic legacy, but it’s also a long-term goal to improve water quality and adapt to climate change. So where exactly can you swim? Well, here are the official places. There are three of them for now.
Annie: The first one is the Bras Marie. That’s in the center of Paris. It’s near the Paris Plages area, right in the heart of the city. The swimming area will be 70 meters long and 20 meters wide. It’s floating, with pontoons attached to the quay. Up to 150 people can swim here at the same time.
Annie: It’s open mornings until noon and all day Saturday until 6:30 PM. Just know that they have to shut down boat traffic for this one, so, hours are limited.
Annie: Number two is Port de Grenelle in the 15th arrondissement. It’s across from Ile-aux-Cygnes. This site also uses floating pontoons and includes a shallow pool for kids.
Annie: It can host up to 200 people. You’ll find changing rooms and showers on the site. It’s open Monday through Friday from 10:00 AM to 5:30 PM, and Saturday from 10:00 AM to 4:55 PM.
Annie: Sundays include short breaks for river traffic as well.
Annie: And number three is Bercy in the 12th arrondissement, right across from the Bibliotheque Nationale de France, Mitterrand edition.
Annie: This will be the largest of the three, accommodating up to 700 people with 300 in the water at once. Two freshwater pools will be available. It’ll be open daily from 11:00 AM until 9:00 PM all summer long.
Annie: Now, these are proper swimming areas with safety measures in place. Expect lifeguards, flag system, green, yellow, and red to signal water quality, and regular testing, water quality testing.
Annie: Like on the coast, the spots may close for a day or two after heavy rains due to runoff so check before you go.
Annie: And if you’re heading a bit outside of Paris, you’ll also find swimming in the Marne River starting on June 28th in places like Joinville-le-Pont near the marina, Maisons-Alfort, that’s at the Charentonneau Footbridge, Saint-Maur, and Champigny.
Annie: These Marne locations will charge a three euro entrance fee if you live in the local area. Each spot can get around 200 swimmers, and they’ll be open seven days a week. The Joinville site will be right on a sandy beach. How nice.
Annie: The local government in Val-de-Marne has poured over 200 million euros into making these river sites clean and swimmable again. That includes fixing faulty plumbing connections, building a new water treatment plant, and conducting 8,000 inspections.
Annie: The goal is to open 14 swimming sites between the Seine and the Marne by 2026.
Annie: So yes, for the first time since the 1970s, Parisians and visitors can swim in the rivers again safely with Olympic flair.
Annie: Now, let me know. Would you do it? Would you pack a bathing suit for a dip in the Seine this summer?
Annie: I will not. I swim in the Mediterranean, not lakes, not rivers. That’s just… just, you know, I have issues. I do have issues, and that’s one of them.
Annie: And to talk back on these types of questions, you can, of course do it as a patron, of course, or on the Facebook group. We have a Join Us in France closed group on Facebook, and if you join that, you will have to answer questions, or we won’t let you in. We’re a lot picky about who we let in.
Annie: My thanks to podcast editors, Anne and Christian Cotovan, who produced the transcripts.
[00:56:21] Next week on the podcast
Annie: Join us next week as we welcome back Kim Cox, who shares the magic of her recent trip to Paris and Strasbourg. She mentions the breathtaking reopening of Notre-Dame de Paris, the enchanting Christmas markets, and hidden gems only locals know about.
Annie: This episode is packed with tips and tales that will give you serious wanderlust. Don’t they all?
Annie: Don’t miss out on this winter wonderland adventure with Join Us in France. Thank you so much for listening, and I hope you join me next time so we can look around France together.
Annie: Au revoir.
[00:56:58] Copyright
Annie: The Join Us in France travel podcast is written, hosted, and produced by Annie Sargent, and Copyright 2025 by AddictedToFrance. It is released under a Creative Commons attribution, non-commercial, no derivatives license.
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Episode PageCategories: Active Vacations in France, Occitanie, Toulouse Area