Guest Notes for Episode 376: 12 Days Solo in Paris

Categories: Paris, Solo in France

Wednesday September 22 to Monday October 4

6 Rue Leopold Bellan Apartment

Practiced Duo lingo French for 7 months before travelling, and had help from my 14 year old French Immersion daughter.

THURSDAY SEPTEMBER 23 ARRIVE 0645:  take an Uber to Hotel Britannique 20 Rue Victoria, Paris.  This is a day use hotel as I arrived there at 0900 and my Air B n B was not ready till 3PM.  A nice police officer at the airport helped me get to an open Relay Store to get a sim card.  30 EU got me an Orange sim card with 20GB data and a French phone number.  Able to change my number and get an Uber right out of the airport.  Drive to Hotel Britannique a little long 1.5 hours.  Hotel was 65 EU, I washed up and left. Saint Germain – L’Auxerrois Gothic Church it was closed but beautiful.  Ate on Quai du Louvre a banana and Nutella crepe went across the Pont Neuf had to zig zag due to the trial that is on at the Palace of Justice, did go down to Square du Vert-Galant then continued over to the left bank and along the Seine to get back across to Il de la Cite.  Wandered around listening to Rick Steve’s tour about Notre Dame read all of the boards around the church and the progress they have been making on the rebuilding.  Wandered thru all the garden shops at La cite des fleurs florists (come here on Sunday morning for the birds).  Be back at Ile de la Cite to see Sainte Chappelle (be there at noon) look up as there is a special clock, ticket time 1300 be there 20 minutes early, no issue getting in showed COVID passport on paper from Ontario which it is in French as well.  Enjoyed the outside of the church and all of its details.  Spent about 45 minutes inside the church.  Went back to the right bank saw Saint – Jacques Tower and Hotel de Bille as well as Tombe Par La Liberation De Paris from 21 Aug1944.  Grabbed a sandwich from a very busy spot around the corner from my hotel, went back ate a bit and left got an Uber to the apartment.  The apartment address is above is a wonderful spot 50 meters from Rue Montugruel with the oldest bakery and many places to eat and drink.  The welcome person was there when I arrived and I went up the 80 round stairs to the top.  Apartment was very small but with a full balcony, pergola, and heater to sit outside.  View was amazing.  I unpacked went back downstairs to grab a few items from a grocery store and a quiche for dinner.  Was in bed by 8PM and slept till 9AM.    (Walked 9.9km)

Friday September 24th:  Sleep in, had a chocolate croissant.  Walk south to Rue Bachaumont turn right go past perfumerie Nose on the right side.  Left on Rue Montmartre south to Saint – Eustache Church (0930-1900).  Wonderful gothic church.   This was my favorite church and I visited it many times.  E. Dehillerin Kitchen store, a wonderful little and very old shop of kitchen items, got Miles a carving fork, large knife, butter spreader, and the traditional green apron.  Found a nice store Athina on Rue Reaumur where I purchased some items.   Went to a testing spot to see if they do PCR test on Rue Reaumur at Centre de Depistage Covid 19 they do not do them the day I need so sent me to 11 Rue du Faubourg they confirmed they do them and I was set to come back Friday October 1 after 1445 hours.   Did more walking and touring of the area Les Halles shopping mall, and a store Caroll on Rue du Ravioli.  Did not want to walk up the stairs so waited for my friend at the Le Crepiere for late lunch had a fromage & jambone with a glass of Rose and waited for Anja.  Anja arrived and had a snack then we went up to apartment and left for the Boat at Notre Dame validate the ticket before getting on go to a kiosk for an overview tour.  Did the whole tour and returned to Louvre so we could walk the Louvre and the Tuileries, walked to Palace de Concorde saw the Obelisque de Louxor then back along Rue Rivoli.   We ate around the corner from the apartment I had an omelet and sent it back to be cooked more, too runny for my liking, Aperol Spritz was excellent then headed up about 9PM enjoyed a glass of wine on the balcony. (Walked 15.8km)

SATURDAY SEPTEMBER 25TH:  Walked and saw Eglise Saint Gervais, went to Il de Louise had a croissant, saw the garden stores, then to Notre Dame.  Boat ride (hours are 1140-1830) got a 48 hour pass.   Ride the boat and stop where we want got off at Saint Germaine and did the Rick Steves walking tour.  Saw St. Severin and St. Germain churches.  Want to head back to 22 Saint Severine skinniest building.  Looked in the Shakespeare and Company Book store, very crowded.  Then head to Muse D’ Orsay (16EU Anja is free must book ticket, 0930-1800) for 1430 entry for 1500.  Went to the Café Campana on the 5th floor and go out to the balcony for pictures.  We enjoyed the museum but are not huge art fans.  I am glad we went and saw we feel most of it.

Walk Pont du Carrousel across to the Louvre wander around and do the Jardin des Tuileries.  Ate around the corner a salad and frites with an Aperol Spritz of course.

SUNDAY SEPTEMBER 26TH:  Will take 1 hour to walk there.  Walked along the Seine on the left bank to the Eiffel Tower for 1230 time, be about 30 minutes early.  Watched a 10KM running race thru the Louvre.  Found the awesome picture spot for the tower.  Went up and wandered around the summit.  Then walked across to the right bank towards Arc De Triomphe, it had started to rain and we were dressed for it.  Looked at it but did not go up close.  Walked down Champs Elysees, then cut thru as per the google maps.

Stopped for Anja to get a banana and Nutella crepe then back up to the apartment so she could pack.    Flight is 1945.  After I took her to the RER did some shopping and went to eat at Le Tambour had steak frites, salad and an Aperol Spritz.  Was very good. (Walked 17.7km)

MONDAY SEPTEMBER 27TH:    Do electric bike tour with Air B n B.  Booked for 0900, leave at 0830.  Was raining dressed in rain clothes.  Tour guide Pierre was excellent he showed the 6 of us things I had not seen at all.  Pl. Vendome, Palais Royal, Statue of Louise IV where you can see and line up the first Arc, the obelisque, to Arc de Triomphe at the Louvre. Then to La Procope a coffee store that has Napolean’s hat because he did not have the money to pay for his meal.  On to Eglise Saint Sulpice and the Delecroix paintings.  I would have loved the tour to be longer but that’s ok.  But stopped during lunch had a nice warm soup and a latte.

More walking Le Marais. Eglise Saint – Gervais by the Seine behind Hotel Britannique, and Eglise Saint Roch.  More shopping at C & A.  Got quiche, tradition and dessert.   Was in by 1630 hours. (Walked 8.6km)

 TUESDAY SEPTEMBER 28TH:  Was awoken by someone ringing all the door bells at the apartment was quite annoying.  Left at 1020 for my 1100 entry.  Opera de Paris Palais Garnier (10-5) 14EU buy on line at  It is a 20 minute walk 1.5km from apartment.  This tour I spent the most time on, it was amazing, I loved all of it and glad I got the audio guide, was there 2 hours.  Then walk to Galeries Lafayette remember the rooftop view.  The mall itself did not interest me although the washrooms here were very nice and clean.  Then walk down to the centre on De L’ Opera to Desigual store is closed up, kitchen store & liquor store 1 Rue de la Banque.  Went to NOSE for perfume for Addison.  Went home to drop stuff off and eat left over quiche and baguette.  Went back out and walked on Bd de Sebastopol and did not find it too comfortable. (Walked 13.4km)

 WEDNESDAY SEPTEMBER 29TH:  Walk to Jardin des Plantes wander around and enjoyed.  Then walk to Saint – Etienne – du – Mont.  Then on to the Pantheon (0830-2200).  Then walk to Eglise Saint Sulpice 2 Rue Palatine (open 0800-1945 no fee).  To 22 Severine skinniest building in Paris.  Walked passed many churches I had already seen Eglise Saint Etienne Du Mont was closed till 2pm, saw the Pantheon, then Eglise Saint Sulpice and Saint Germain Des Pres already in but took more time to wander around this time.

Ticket to use at Rodin Sculpture Museum.  Rodin was amazing I loved this museum inside and out.  Then on to Rue Cler which was just ok I could have missed this, listened to Rick Steve’s tour for this.  Walked toward Eiffel Tower and found a restaurant had croquet monsieur and a Rose waited for dark.

WOW best ever so pretty when it lights up and twinkles.  Walked home the 5km taking pictures the whole time.  Back in about 2200 no issues walking at this time did not feel uncomfortable.  (20KM walked)

 THURSDAY SEPTEMBER 30TH:  Desigual store in North Gard was small but glad I went.  Food Market Day.  1. Rue Montorgueil, go to 51 Rue Montorgueil Stohrer oldest pastry shop 0830-2030.  The whole street a market.  2.  Marche Saint Martin 0900-2000 near canal area 31 Rue du Chateau d’Eau.  3.  Marche des Enfants Rouge 39 Rue de Bretagne 0830-2000 closed Mondays.  In Marais go see Carnavalet Museum closed Monday’s.  Open 1000-1800 must reserve times, so before market.  Overall did not find the markets anything as to what I had expected.    (Walked 16.4KM)

Sat at Place des Vosges to have a snack.  Continued to walk back down to Saint Germain, found a market where I bought some gifts.  Sat and had French Onion Soup from a snotty waiter who got no tip from me.  Found the hotel we stayed in back in 2012.  Then found on the Seine the green stalls a painted that I loved his work Hmamsi Gildas took me awhile to pick one but I did and was very happy I bumped into him.  Got a salad from Paul, and a sweet treat which I really did not like a meringue, no flavor.

 FRIDAY OCTOBER 1st:  Walked to Sacre Coeur free, took the funicular barely anyone there.  Walked thru the church and around the outside and in behind.  Also saw another church in the back Eglise Saint Pierre De Montmartre.  Walked in the direction of St. Denis then called for an uber to take me the rest of the way.  This church Basilique Cathedrale De Saint Denis is lovely with crypts in the basement.  Early masterpiece of gothic art.  Went outside and was a market there but very crowded and not items I was interested in buying.  Spoke to the tourism office they told me where to go to get an Uber back.  Took the Uber to an area close to the COVID testing center and walked the rest of the way.

Went to 11 Rue du Faubourg Poissonniere for PCR test and person did not show up to do test so went to Canal area to have test done.  Had frites with truffles and cheese.  Got a nice jacket for Addison and then another quiche and sweet treat for dinner.  Sat on the balcony.  (Walked 15.4km)

 SATURDAY OCTOBER 2nd:  Back to Saint – Germian to enjoy other food markets or favorite place.  Went to Saint Etienne Du Mont, bought myself a necklace on Rue Mouffetard Market, also cheese which was sealed for my travel home. Found a nice place for a soft boiled egg with a biscuit and latte.  Then to Luxemburg Gardens and watched an orchestra play.  Wandered the bridges.  Wander back a different way.  And make sure I have gifts to bring home.  Found a different place to eat whole in the wall place, had croque monsier and a kir.  (Walked 17.2km)

SUNDAY OCTOBER 3rd:  Morning bird market by Notre Dame beside Cite Metro.  Then to the Art Show at 59 Rivoli 1300-2000, close to the Louvre.  Walked to Champs – Elysees car free zone and Arc Triomphe.  Had a lovely dinner of Duck confit and a glass of wine.  Was Lovely way to end my trip.   (Walked 13.7km)

Monday October 4th: Pack and be ready to leave at 1100.  Have a nice breakfast and relax at favorite place. Took Welcome Transport back to airport super easy to get thru with arrive can app and my negative PCR test and double vaccines.  (Walked 5.3km)

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Categories: Paris, Solo in France