Renting a Boat on the Canal du Midi: A Dreamy Slow Travel Adventure in France, Episode 573

Categories: Occitanie, Toulouse Area

Ever dreamed of swapping the hustle of modern travel for a leisurely, wine-filled boat trip through the heart of France? In Episode 573 of the Join Us in France podcast, host Annie Sargent chats with Bobbi Heath, a seasoned traveler, artist and boating enthusiast, to spill all the details about her unforgettable week on the Canal du Midi.

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If you’ve ever wondered what it’s like to navigate historic locks, tie up in charming villages, and wake up to the gentle lapping of water against your boat, this episode is your ultimate guide. Bobbi and her friends didn’t just take a trip—they embraced slow travel in one of France’s most iconic waterways, and she’s sharing every tip, trick, and hidden gem so you can do it too.

The Magic of the Canal du Midi The Canal du Midi isn’t just a waterway; it’s a 17th-century marvel that connects the Atlantic to the Mediterranean. Built by Pierre-Paul Riquet under Louis XIV, this UNESCO-listed canal was once a bustling trade route. Today, it’s a playground for travelers who want to experience France at a relaxed pace.

Bobbi Heath, a New England-based Francophile, chose this route for its rich history, stunning scenery, and—let’s be honest—its proximity to some of France’s best wine regions. She and her husband, Dan, along with friends Amy and Nate, spent a week navigating the canal, and Annie Sargent digs into every detail: from planning the itinerary to mastering the locks (yes, even if you’re a beginner!).

Starting their Canal Trip in Homps

Why a Boat Trip on the Canal du Midi? Bobbi’s boat trip started in the tiny town of Homps, where they picked up their rental from Le Boat. Why Homps? It’s perfectly positioned for exploring both directions of the canal, and it’s an easy train ride from Toulouse. But here’s the thing: you don’t need to be an expert sailor. The boats are designed for beginners, with speed limits to protect the fragile canal banks and fenders to prevent damage. Bobbi’s advice? Start by going downstream. It’s easier to handle the locks when you can see the bollards, and the slow travel vibe lets you soak in the landscape—think tree-lined paths, cyclists waving as they pass, and vineyards stretching as far as the eye can see.

Enjoying Carcassonne

The group’s route took them to Carcassonne, a medieval fortress city that’s straight out of a fairy tale. Bobbi raves about La Table d’Alais, a restaurant so good they returned on a later trip. (Pro tip: Book ahead! You’ll find the link here: La Table d’Alais.) They also stopped in Le Somail, a postcard-perfect village with a bookstore that will make any bibliophile weak in the knees. Le Trouve-Tout du Livre is a treasure trove of French books, maps, and even vintage Maigret novels. Bobbi still cherishes a book of Aude region sketches she found there. And if you love history, don’t miss the Amphoral's Museum, where you can explore ancient Roman amphorae workshops. It’s a fascinating peek into how goods were transported thousands of years ago. Amphoralis Museum is a must-visit!

Practical Tips for Boating on the Canal du Midi

Practical Tips for Your Own Adventure Renting a boat on the Canal du Midi is easier than you think. Bobbi recommends Le Boat or Locaboat, both of which offer well-equipped vessels for four to six people. Prices start around $1,200 for a week, plus fuel and optional extras like bikes. Speaking of bikes, bring gloves for handling the rough ropes and non-slip shoes—the canal’s water is murky, and safety comes first! Pack light, too. Cabins are cozy, so duffel bags work better than suitcases.

One of Bobbi’s best tips? Hit the locks early. They open at 9 AM, and if you’re among the first boats, you’ll avoid long waits. The locks close for lunch, so plan accordingly. Most days, the group was docked by early afternoon, leaving plenty of time to explore. They’d grab fresh baguettes and pastries in the morning, enjoy a picnic lunch on board, and dine out in the evenings. The slow travel lifestyle means you’re not rushing—just savoring each moment.

Wine, Dining, and Local Flavors

No boat trip on the Canal du Midi would be complete without wine, and Bobbi is a self-proclaimed enthusiast. The Minervois region is a highlight, with affordable, high-quality wines that don’t get enough love outside France. Bobbi’s group stocked up at local grocery stores and even visited a wine cooperative in Argens, where you can taste and buy wine straight from the vat. For a special experience, she recommends Chateau Paraza, a short walk from the canal. Chateau Paraza offers tastings in a stunning setting.

Foodies will love the local markets, too. Bobbi used Jour de Marche (https://www.jourdemarche.fr) to find market days along their route. In Carcassonne, the lower town has fantastic shops for leather goods and linens, while the cité (the walled city) is magical at night. And if you’re in Le Somail on a market day, don’t miss the chance to stock up on fresh produce, cheese, and saucisson for your onboard picnics.

Who Should Try This Trip?

This kind of slow travel is perfect for groups of four—enough hands to manage the locks but intimate enough to enjoy the experience together. Bobbi cautions against bringing small kids (the locks require focus), but teens or adults who love adventure will have a blast. It’s also ideal for retirees or anyone who wants to unplug and reconnect with friends or family. As Bobbi puts it, “It’s like an RV that floats!” You’re close to nature, but with all the comforts of home (well, a tiny home).

What About the Challenges? Of course, no trip is without its hiccups. Bobbi’s group had a wonky bike chain and a few minor mishaps with the locks, but nothing that ruined the fun. Her biggest piece of advice? Check everything on the boat before you set off. Test the bikes, count the wine glasses (yes, they had to buy extras!), and make sure you’ve got enough linens. And if you’re gluten-free, bring your own bread—French pharmacies are everywhere, but gluten-free options can be scarce in small towns.

Why You’ll Love This Episode

Annie Sargent’s conversation with Bobbi Heath is packed with practical advice, personal stories, and infectious enthusiasm. Whether you’re a seasoned Francophile or just dreaming of your first boat trip, you’ll walk away with a clear picture of what to expect—and why the Canal du Midi might just be your next favorite destination.

More episodes about visiting the southwest of France

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Categories: Occitanie, Toulouse Area