Categories: French History, Off the Beaten Track in France, Toulouse Area
Discussed in this Episode
- Saint-Nicolas-de-la-Grave
- Cadillac Museum
- Castelsarrasin
- Moissac
- Église des Carmes
- Confluence of the Garonne and Tarn Rivers
- Montauban
- Place Nationale Montauban
- Ingres Bourdelle Museum
- Olympe de Gouges Theatre
- Bordeaux
- Hôtel Bouvinard
- Toulouse
- Detroit
- Fort Pontchartrain
- Fort Michilimackinac
- Quebec City
- Louisiana
- Bastille
- Crozat family Toulouse
Favorite things about this trip
St. Nicolas de la Grave
Free Parking: aire de services camping car, Rue Bouchotte, 82210 Saint-Nicolas-de-la-Grave
Musée Lamothe-Cadillac, 7 Rue Lamothe Cadillac, 82210 Saint-Nicolas-de-la-Grave
Château Richard-Coeur-de-Lion, Pl. du Château, 82210 Saint-Nicolas-de-la-Grave
Eglise De Saint Nicolas, 82210 Saint-Nicolas-de-la-Grave
Coffee: Le Rallye, 3 All. Joseph Lasserre, 82210 Saint-Nicolas-de-la-Grave
Castelsarrasin
Lunch- Le Patio, 60 Rue de l’Égalité, 82100 Castelsarrasin
Mairie de Castelsarrasin, 5 Pl. de la Liberté, 82100 Castelsarrasin
L’Hôtel des Gouverneurs, now Gîte “Lamothe Cadillac” – Gîtes de France, 6 Pl. Lamothe Cadillac, 82100
Castelsarrasin. “Il se trouve dans l’hôtel des Gouverneurs qui abritait jadis Lamothe Cadillac !”
About two blocks from L’Hôtel des Gouverneurs are remnants of the fortress wall
Église Saint-Sauveur de Castelsarrasin, Pl. de la Raison, 82100 Castelsarrasin, France
Infrastructure de recharge TARN-ET-GARONNE Charging Station and other parking, 66 Prom. du Château,
82100 Castelsarrasin
Cadillac and several family members were buried in Castelsarrasin but we did not find his grave. We had some information but the directions took us to farm fields or a private home. We had a lovely drive through an orchard!
Moissac:
Saint-Pierre Abbey in Moissac, 6 Pl. Durand de Bredon, 82200 Moissac Drink – Le Floretin, 8 Pl. Roger Delthil, 82200 Moissac or one of with a perfect view of the entrance to the church and its sculptural arch
Point de vue du Calvaire, 1186 Chem. du Calvaire, 82200 Moissac
Favorite Restaurants
Les Pyrenees, Les Americains, and Hippopotamus – all three are in Toulouse.
Lunch in Castelsarrasin at Le Patio, 60 Rue de l’Égalité, 82100 Castelsarrasin
We walked a few blocks and looked at our options then chose Le Patio. Lovely patio. I had a delicious cuisse de canard and wine. Elizabeth did not enjoy her calamari. I believe you and Elizabeth enjoyed your chocolate mousse dessert.
Coffee in St. Nicolas de la Grave at Le Rallye, 3 All. Joseph Lasserre, 82210 Saint-Nicolas-de-la-Grave
Amusing to be the only women there at first, then others started arriving. Seemed to be the morning coffee spot for the men of the village. It was enjoyable observing the animated men in conversation and
then the family that came with the little girl with pigtails all dressed in pink, a purse, and pushing her pink doll in a stroller. Adorable.
What did you learn about France on this trip?
Cadillac [pronounced Cady-yak in French] First thing I learned was how to pronounce his name!
Who was Antoine Laumet de Lamothe Cadillac (1658-1730)?
Governor, explorer, adventurer, and Founder of the city of Detroit. The French adventurer who in 1701 founded the first significant European post west of the Allegheny Mountains and named it, Detroit – the straits in French. Cadillac’s letters give evidence of a “spirited, determined, and ambitious man, and those
written about him during his era reveal that these same qualities earned him an abundance of enemies.” He was a persuasive self promoter, and quite a roque.
According to https://www.britannica.com/biography/Antoine-Laumet-de-La-Mothe-Cadillac, he was a French soldier, explorer, and administrator in French North America, founder of the city of Detroit (1701), and governor of Louisiana (1710 to 1716 or 1717). Going to Canada in 1683, he fought against the
Iroquois Indians, lived for a time in Maine (possibly as a spy for France), and first served (1694–97) in present-day Michigan as commandant of the important frontier post of Mackinac [ma·kuh·naa]. With
permission from King Louis XIV, Cadillac established a Great Lakes fur-trading post and founded Fort-Pontchartrain du Détroit, later called Detroit. He governed there until 1710, when his enemies in Quebec and Paris forced his removal to the new French colony of Louisiana. Increasingly unpopular there and himself dissatisfied with his appointment, Cadillac was recalled to France and was briefly confined in the Bastille. He lived the rest of his life in retirement in Castelsarrasin. The city of Cadillac, Mich.; Cadillac Mountain, Maine; and the Cadillac automobile are named for him.
Michigan and much of the Great Lakes region was once a French territory for more than 200 years.
According to https://www.britannica.com/place/New-France, New France, (1534–1763), the French colonies of continental North America, initially embracing the shores of the St. Lawrence River, Newfoundland, and Acadia (Nova Scotia) but gradually expanding to include much of the Great Lakes
region and parts of the trans-Appalachian West. The name New France was first recorded in 1529 on a map when Giovanni da Verrazzano, who, in the service of France, had explored the coasts of North America in 1524 from what is now the Carolinas north to Nova Scotia. Then in 1534 the French navigator and explorer Jacques Cartier entered the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and took possession of New France for King Francis I.
Cadillac’s history related to New France: In 1683, as possibly a privateer and type of spy for France, Cadillac arrived in Acadia, now Nova Scotia.
This territory was occupied by English as their new colony. In 1689, Cadillac reported to the French Minister of the Navy in detail about this area including New York, and his visit to Boston in 1685.
On June 25, 1687 he married Marie-Thérèse Guyon, in Quebec City, claiming on the marriage certificate to be the son of Jean de la Mothe, seigneur de Cadillac, de Lassaye and de Semontel, and Jeanne de Malentauz. Different stories say he devised his own noble family and coat of arms from Château de
Cadillac and the Duke d’Epernon and others cite the Château de Lamotte Bardigues.
Until 1691, he lived in Acadia/Nova Scotia when he went to Quebec, where he was commissioned in the troops of the marine by Governor-general Louis de Buade, comte de Frontenac.
In 1694, French government named Cadillac a captain in the Marines and naval ensign and then named him governor of Michilimackinac [ muh·shi·luh·ma·kuh·naa].
In December of 1698 he successfully convinced Louis XIV and his Minister of Marine, Count Pontchartrain, to decree the establishment of a fort on the Detroit River.
On July 24, 1701, Cadillac founded Detroit when he disembarked at the narrowest point in the Detroit River. A flotilla of 25 canoes and a contingent of one hundred French had departed Montreal on June 5, 1701.
In 1702, Cadillac’s own wife arrived and she was the first white woman ever to cross the 750 miles of uncharted and hostile Iroquois Territory (Quebec to Detroit through Lake Ontario). They had several children there, also first white births recorded.
1710 – he was named governor of Louisiana, and then in 1716 he was recalled to France. Opposed John Law’s mendacious propaganda and was consequently sent to the Bastille on September 27, 1717. So to keep him quiet, they sent him to the Bastille prison with his son for six months. He
petitioned the court for compensation for a large swath of land that he claimed to have cleared in Detroit, and returned with his family to St. Nicolas-de-la-Grave.
In 1722, Cadillac was awarded a pension, rights to some of the Detroit holdings, monetary restitution, and the Cross of Saint-Louis for three decades of service to the crown in New France. That same year he sold his Detroit real estate, and with the money purchased a commission from the Crown that gave him the governorship of the nearby town of Castelsarrasin. Home at 6 Pl. Lamothe Cadillac (now La Camera Bianca Bed & Breakfast, which is for sale).
He was inducted as mayor of the town as well, but was removed from the post by the king not long afterward.
Cadillac died in Castelsarrasin, 16 Oct 1722 (aged 64). Although we could not find it, he was buried in the cemetery of a Carmelite church, Church of the Carmelite Fathers of Castelsarrasin. Some records claim “unknown which chapel” and others state “in a chapel of the Peres Carmes” church.
Why was it important to me to visit these places?
I have lived in Michigan most of my life, and I have been studying French and French history since high school. I have been to France five times, four since 2019. At the time that I decided to attend Bootcamp again, I was working at the Historical Society of Michigan as the director of development. I studied history at university and have always enjoyed learning about
historical persons, such as Joan of Arc and artists. The more I read about Cadillac, the more he seems like such an interesting person. This man reinvented himself when he arrived in New France and during
his lifetime he would meet major players of world history – the big one being himself, Louis XIV (the Sun King); but also Governor-general Louis de Buade, comte de Frontenac; Minister of Marine, Count Pontchartrain; Antoine Crozat; and possibly Cardinal Mazarin. When I realized that his birth home, now a museum, is in St Nicolas de la Grave and that the last place he
lived, Castelsarrasin, are both about an hour from Toulouse, I was eager to visit! It was even more important to me when I learned that in 1972 a Michigan historic plaque was given to the Cadillac Museum and it is the only one outside of the state. This along with $20,000 was donated from the Michigan HIstorical Commission in ‘72 to purchase the home and turn it into a museum.
We settled on May 10 as our day trip.
You picked us up at Place Wilson and the first stop was St. Nicolas de la Grave.
Free parking at the camping site Walked past St. Nicholas church and tourism office, 19th century marketplace, and down the covered
walkway. Light was so beautiful we took several photos. Then around the corner to the Musee Cadillac.
Only to find that it was closed and the sign on the door actually said it was only open in July and August.
The website said otherwise!
I could tell that you were frustrated because we couldn’t get into the Cadillac museum but I thought it
was all worthwhile just to interact with the gentleman from across the street from the museum.
Thankfully, you were there because he spoke quickly and animatedly. He tried thoroughly to get someone
to show us the museum because he seemed excited that someone was there to see it. His grandmother,
I think, was descended from the Cadillac family. So, he marched us to the tourism office, to the mayor’s
office, and then the post office! Later we saw him at the cafe with his neighbors. Finally, I saw him walk
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away, but then moments later to come by and head back to his street with a baguette under his arm! The
only iconic item he was missing was a béret! His wife probably sent him for the bread hours before!
After you gave them your phone number or they gave you the mayor’s phone number, we stopped into the
church. Very interesting interior with a man made grotto type of chapel that included a statue of a
woman in wooden shoes – maybe she was supposed to be St. Mary. There was also a lovely St. Jeanne
d’Arc sculpture.
Outside the church is a World War I memorial on Places de la Halle. When we went back the next week,
Mme. Jacquelin, the historian and tour guide of the Cadillac museum, explained that it was made by a
local sculptor who created relief of a soldier in the trenches with grenades in one hand while he dreams
of being back in St. Nicolas, farming and the church steeple in the distance. On each side of the
sculpture are the lists of the veterans being memorialized.
Before we went on to Castelsarrasin, we went to the cafe for a coffee, Le Rallye.
Next we enjoyed the gorgeous strawberries that you brought from the market on our way to
Castelsrrasin. Less than 15 minutes from St. Nicolas de la Grave.
Walking around the city center we considered several restaurants, and also paused in front of the
mayor’s office. It was impressive and a public sculpture that I enjoyed.
Lunch at Le Patio was wonderful. Server was great.
You called the La Camera Bianca Bed & Breakfast which is the place that Cadillac last lived. The owner
offered a tour but cautioned that it was a bit messy because it is for sale. Agreed to meet at 2 pm.
Was her name Carmen?
Toured us through many rooms of the former L’Hotel des Gouverneurs including her private apartment
and another private apartment that supposedly included the room where Cadillac may have died.
Carmen’s apartment included a hidden chapel – was this because of the Heugonut war? We even went
into the cellar and she pointed out brick archways that would have been entrances or windows in the
past.
I loved the courtyard and the private garden, plus the room with an indoor pool!
The private apartment was over the top – an elderly lady had lived there for 18 years with very elegant
taste. We were fortunate to visit it even though she is not living there right now.
The B & B offers Gites.
However when we left, the plaque on the building leads me to believe that the room he may have died in
was part of the newer part of the estate (built 19th C.). He may actually have lived in Carmen’s private
apartment.
We found the remnants of the fortress wall about a block away.
Annie offered to take us to the Abbey and Cloisters at Moissac. I wanted to go because it is likely the
place where Cadillac received his education.
Lovely cloisters and museum.
The church reminded me of St. Germain des Pres with the painted interior decoration. It also included a
St. Jeanne d’Arc chapel and sculpture – as is typical it is a memorial for World War I.
Before heading back to Toulouse we enjoyed a coffee or wine looking at the lovely sculptural arched
entryway into eglise St. Pierre.
Annie, do you want to mention the SOS call from Mary Pat and the electric rental car?
That was a Thursday. On Monday, you called the mayor back about visiting the Cadillac Museum. He
offered to meet us there on Thursday, May 16, so off we went!
May 16th – back to St. Nicolas de la Grave to meet the mayor, M. Bouche and local guide and historian,
Mme. Jacquelin.
The tour of the Cadillac Museum was very special for me. It was exciting to meet the mayor of St.
Nicolas de la Grave, M. Bouche, and the historian and tour guide, Danielle Jacquelin. She was incredibly
knowledgeable about Cadillac and how Cadillac’s history is documented.
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From her and the museum, we learned that he was quite a character. He was ambitious, competitive, and
determined. He was certainly not afraid at all to offend the missionaries or other men who were there to
make a name and money for themselves. Until we were in the museum, I hadn’t realized that Cadillac
traveled back and forth from France at least five times and interacted with Louis XIV.
For such a small museum, they have developed an excellent exhibit that tells his story, the history of New
France, and the long lasting impact of Cadillac in Michigan and the US & Canada.
One of their goals is to raise money to update and renovate the museum. It would be wonderful if
Michigan had the resources to support them like they did in 1972 so that the town could buy the home
and open it as a museum. It was exciting to see the Michigan historic plaque, which is the only one
outside the state.
As someone from Michigan and someone who appreciates French history and culture, I am excited that
there is this connection from my birth state to these towns in France.
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Episode Page TranscriptCategories: French History, Off the Beaten Track in France, Toulouse Area