Categories: Arts & Architecture, Off the Beaten Track in France, Paris
Discussed in this Episode
- Charlotte Perriand exhibit at the Louis Vuiton Museum in Paris [02:42]
- Visiting the Pompidou Center with a teenager [05:37]
- Le Corbusier sites in the 15th arrondissement [08:48]
- Le Corbusier as a controversial figure [13:42]
- What Le Corbusier and Haussmann have in common [15:57]
- L'Esprit Nouveau Magazine [16:22]
- Le Corbusier didn't train to be an architect! [18:26]
- Problems with Le Corbusier buildings [19:48]
- Immeuble Molitor in Boulogne-Billancourt his private residence [21:36]
- Maison Cook {22:46]
- Villa Savoye in Poissy [25:10]
- Take note if you're going to be driving in Paris! [25:43]
- Le Corbusier influenced thousands who came after him [32:30]
- In the 13th and 14th arrondissement [33:19]
- Not ideal for teenagers unless you use the Flash Invader App [34:43]
- Using the VoiceMap App [36:28]
- Not to miss inside of Saint Germain des Près Church [31:01]
- David likes Saint Germain better than the Marais now that's he's tried both [38:19]
- Go inside the stores that are recommended on the tour! [38:49]
- Speaking some French is a big plus even if it's not necessary [40:10]
You can download David’s day-by-day plan here. It lists transportation options, restaurant recommendations, addresses, etc.
| GENERAL CORBUSIER BACKGROUND/BIOGRAPHY | ||||||
| -BORN IN 1887, NEE CHARLES-EDOUARD JEANNERET IN SWITZERLAND IN 1887 | ||||||
| -1914 DEVELOPS “MAISON DOM-INO” PROTOTYPE FOR MODERN HOUSE THAT DOES NOT RELY ON WALLS FOR STRUCTURE | ||||||
| -1917, OPENS HIS FIRST PARIS ARCHITECTURE STUDIO | ||||||
| -BECOMES FRIENDS WITH LEGER, PICASSO, BRAQUE, GRIS, OZENFANT | ||||||
| -1920, ADOPTS THE PSEUDONYM “LE CORBUSIER” FROM HIS MATERNAL GRANDFATHER LECORBESIER | ||||||
| -1922, STARTS ARCHITECTURAL PARTNERSHIP WITH PIERRE JEANNERET | ||||||
| -1923, PUBLISHES “VERS UNE ARCHITECTURE”, MIS-TRANSLATED INTO ENGLISH AS “TOWARDS A NEW ARCHITECTURE” | ||||||
| – 5 POINTS OF ARCHITECTURE (BEST REPRESENTED BY THE VILLA SAVOYE); 1. PILOTIS, OR A GRID OF COLUMNS; 2. FREE DESIGN OF THE FLOORPLAN; 3. FREE DESIG OF THE FAÇADE (EXTERIOR OF THE BUILDING DOES NOT HAVE TO CORRESPOND TO INTERIOR ROOMS OR FUNCTIONS); 4. HORIZONTAL (RIBBON) WINDOWS 5. ROOF GARDENS | ||||||
| -1925, MEETS GERTRUDE STEIN, WILL LATER BUILD THE VILLA STEIN, SOUTH OF PARIS (UNFORTUNATELY NOW CONVERTED TO CONDOS) | ||||||
| -1930 BECOMES FRENCH | ||||||
| DAY # | DATE | ARRON. | LE CORBUSIER | NON-CORBUSIER ACTIVITIES | RESTAURANTS, SHOPS AND LOCAL ATTRACTIONS | NOTES |
| 1 | 2/15/20 | 1ST/7TH | ||||
| DROPPED OFF OUR LUGGAGE AT HOTEL MONTALEMBERT | 3 RUE MONTALEMBERT | HIGHLY RECOMMEND THIS HOTEL- GREAT LOCATION; GREAT STAFF (ROOMS A BIT SMALL, BEDS A BIT HARD; ROOM SERVICE EXPENSIVE, BUT WOULD STAY HERE AGAIN IN A MINUTE) | ||||
| WALK TUILERIE GARDENS TO GRAND PALAIS AND BACK | HERMES FAUBOURG SAINT-HONORE, BISTRO FRANCOIS FELIX | DISCOVERED ROOM AT BACK OF HERMES THAT SELLS ONE OF A KIND GIFT ITEMS UNDER/AROUND $200/EUROS | ||||
| WALK ST GERMAIN DE PRES- RUE DE BAC TO LA GRANDE EPICERIE | LUNCH AT LA TABLE, LA GRANDE EPICERIE | |||||
| EXPLORE DEYROLLE | ||||||
| NAP | ||||||
| DINNER AT LES DEUX MAGOTS | ||||||
| 2 | 2/16/20 | 7TH/14TH | ||||
| RUE CLARE FOR BRUNCH | L’ECLAIR FOR BRUNCH – HIGHLY RECOMMENDED | HUGE “AMERICAN STYLE” PRIX FIX BRUNCH, 32 RUE CLER | ||||
| TOUR OF ART NOUVEAU IN THE 7TH | 29 AVENUE RAPP, 12 RUE SEDILLOT, 33 RUE CHAMPS DE MARS, 151 RUE DE GRENELLE | JULES LAVIOTTE, OCTAVE RAQUIN, ARCHITECTS | ||||
| STOPPED BE THE MUSEE RODIN | SKIPPED, HIGH WINDS HAD GARDENS CLOSED | |||||
| CAB TO FONDATION GIACOMETTI, 5 RUE VICTOR SCHOELCHER | HOUSED IN AN AMAZING ABUILDNG BY PAUL FOLLOT THAT TRANSISTIONS BETWEEN ART NOUVEAU AND DECO | |||||
| CAB TO CENTRE POMPIDOU | REFRESHMENTS AT BRASSERIE GEORGE ROOF TERRACE | GREAT VIEWS, OBVIOUSLY | ||||
| TOURED MODERN ART MUSEUM AT CP | WE ENJOYED THE 4TH FLOOR MORE THAN THE 5TH | |||||
| BRANCUSI STUDIO AT CENTRE POMPIPDOU | RENZO PIANO, ARCHITECT; FREE ADMISSION | |||||
| WALK TO MARAIS FOR DINNER | CHEZ ROBERT ET LOUIS, 64 RUE VIELLE DU TEMPLE | RESERVATIONS RECOMMENDED | ||||
| WALK HOME PAST NOTRE DAME | ||||||
| RAIN- DUCKED INTO CAFÉ DE PARIS | CAFÉ DE PARIS, CALIFORNIA BLISS FROZEN YOGURT, 10 RUE DE BUCI | |||||
| 3 | 2/17/20 | 16TH | ||||
| WENT TO CRAVAN FOR COFFEE | CRAVAN, 17 RUE JEAN DE LA FONTAINE | ALTHOUGH LE FOODING LISTS THIS AS OPEN FOR BREAKFAST AND LUNCH, IT WAS CLOSED, AND FURTHER RESEARCHED SHOWED IT WAS ONLY OPEN AT 6 FOR COCKTAILS | ||||
| LUNCH AT LES ONDES, 2 AVENUE DE VERSAILLES | SEEMED TO BE POPULAR WITH LOCALS, WAIT STAFF SPOKE MOSTLY FRENCH; NOT OUR FAVOURITE MEAL | |||||
| WALKED TO CORBUSIER’S PRIVATE RESIDENCE AND ATELIER DOWN RUE JEAN DE LA FONTAINE | #’S 14, 17,19, 21, AND 60; HECTOR GUIMARD’S PRIVATE RESIDENCE IS AT 122 AVENUE MOZART | IF YOU START OUT AT THE LC MAISON ROCHE/JEANERRET, AND WALK DOWN THE RUE JEAN DE LA FONTAINE, YOU WALK PAST MANY BUILDINGS DESIGNED BY HECTOR GUIMARD, ARCHITECT OF THE PARIS METRO STOPS | ||||
| VISITED LE CORBUSIER’S PRIVATE RESIDENCE AND ATELIER, L’IMMEUBLE MOLITOR, 24 RUE NUNGESSER ET COLI, COMPLETED 1934. HE LIVED HERE UNTIL 1965 (DEATH); BOULOGNE-BILLANCOURT | OPEN SATURDAY, MONDAY, AND TUESDAY ONLY; CHECK FONDATION LE CORBUSIER WEBSITE FOR HOURS; VISITORS NEED TO RING IN; WALK STAIRS TO 7TH FLOOR; NO ADVANCE RESERVATIONS REQUIRED; 10 EUROS, 15 EUROS WITH JOINT TICKET TO MAISON ROCHE | |||||
| WALKED TO VILLA COOK, COMPLETED 1926, 6 RUE DENFERT ROCHEREAU; BOULOGNE SUR SEINE | NOT OPEN TO THE PUBLIC, BUT WELL WORTH A VIIT TO SEE FROM THE OUTSIDE; IN A STRING OF BUILDINGS BY OTHER CONTEMPORARY ARCHITECTS; INCLUDING ROBERT MALLET STEVENS AND RAYMOND FISCHER | |||||
| WALKED TO AND VISITED THE MAISON ROCHE, 10, SQUARE DU DOCTEUR BLANCHE | 10 EUROS FOR ADMISSION, OR JOINT TICKET WITH IMMEUBLE MOLITOR; NO ADVANCE RESERVATIONS NEEDED (EXCEPT FOR GROUPS OF 10); ADJACENT TO MAISON JEANNERET (NOT OPEN TO PUBLIC); CLOSED SUNDAYS | |||||
| SEE NOTE | SIDE NOTE TO ABOVE: A FEW BLOCKS TO THE NORTH OF THESE TWO HOUSES IS THE RUE MALLET STEVENS, WHICH HAS A COLLECTION OF HOUSES BY ROBERT MALLET-STEVENS | |||||
| UBER TO THE HOTEL; DINNER FROM MONOPRIX | ||||||
| 4 | 2/18/20 | N/A | ||||
| LET THE GUYS SLEEP IN; TOOK THE JUIF AUDIO TOUR OR SGDP | ||||||
| RENTED CAR FROM EUROPECAR GARE DES INVALIDES | PARKING Q-PARK; 43 QUAI D’ORSAY NIVEAU-1 | IF WE HAD GOTTEN UP EARLIER, I WOULD HAVE RENTED A CAR AT THE EDGE OF TOWN TO AVOID HAVING TO DRIVE THROUGH THE ETOILE- HOPEFULLY THE LAST TIME WE WILL EVER DO THIS; VILLA SAVOYE IS ALSO ACCESSIBLE BY TRAIN/BUS; OR YOU CAN HIRE AN UBER FOR 38 EUROS; WE OPTED FOR A CAR SO WE COULD MAKE THE MOST OF OUR DAY OUTSIDE PARIS; ALSO CAR RENTALS CLOSE FOR LUNCH BETWEEN 12-2 | ||||
| DRIVE TO POISSY; VISIT VILLA SAVOYE | PARKING ACROSS THE STREET; ENTRY THROUGH GARDEN WALL; LC’S MASTERPIECE FROM THIS PERIOD OF HIS CAREER. WELL WORTH THE VISIT; LESS THAN 30 MINUTES FROM PARIS BY CAR/45 MINUTES BY PUBLIC TRANSIT, DISCUSS SCULPTURAL/SPATIAL MASTERPIECE, PUSHING TECHNOLOGY PAST ITS LIMIT | |||||
| ON THE WAY BACK TO TOWN, DECIDED ON A LARK TO GO TO VERSAILLES, AS IT WAS LESS THAN 30 MINUTES AWAY | ||||||
| LUNCH AT RESTAURANT ORE, ALAIN DUCASSE’S RESTAURANT | SPECIAL OCCASION RESTAURANT, BUT WELL WORTH IT- EXCELLENT FOOD, BEAUTIFUL SURROUNDING; VIEWS OF CENTRAL COURT OF VERSAILLES | |||||
| WALK THE GARDENS OF VERSAILLES | WALKED FROM MAIN CHATEAU TO GRAND AND PETITE TRIANONS | |||||
| DRIVE HOME; RETURN CAR; DINNER AT HUGUETTE BISTRO, SAINT GERMAIN DE PRES | ||||||
| 5 | 2/19/20 | 16TH/7TH/1ST | ||||
| CHARLOTTE PERRIAND SHOW AT THE FONDATION LOUIS VUITTON | CHARLOTTE PERRIAND WAS THE HEAD OF INTERIOR DESIGN FOR LE CORBUSIER’S OFFICE; SHE DESIGNED MANY OF THE PIECES OF FURNITURE THAT ARE OFTEN ATTRIBUTED TO HIM | |||||
| LUNCH AT LES OMBRES, ROOF OF QUAI BRANLY MUSEE | PANORAMIC VIEW OF PARIS; UNOBSTRUCTED VIEW OF LA TOUR EIFFEL; SPECAL OCCASION RESTAURANT PRIX FIXE LUNCH 46 EUROS/PERSON | |||||
| SHOPPING IN THE 1ST | ||||||
| WALK PAST UNESCO TO PADD EQUESTRIAN STORE | ||||||
| DINNER AT HOTEL FROM MONOPRIX | ||||||
| 6 | 2/20/20 | 13TH/14TH/2ND/7TH/6TH | ||||
| LET GUYS SLEEP IN; TOOK 7:30 UBER TO CITE INTERNATIONALE UNIVERSITAIRE DE PARIS | ||||||
| VISITED AND PHOTOGRAPHED THE PAVILLON SUISSE 1930-31, 7K BOULEVARD JOURDAN | CAN SEE THE INTERIOR FOR 1 EURO; PROBABLY NEED TO SPEAK FRENCH TO DO SO (I SKIPPED THE INTERIOR HERE); DISCUSS LE CORBUSIER PUSHING TECHNOLOGY TO ITS LIMIT | |||||
| VISITED AND PHOTOGRAPHED THE MAISON DU BRESIL 1957, 7 L BOULEVARD JOURDAN | CAN TOUR THE INTERIOR FOR 2 EUROS, NEITHER THE JANITOR NOR BUILDING MANAGER SPEAK ENGLISH, SOS FRENCH REALLY CAME IN HANDY; WAS STARTED BY ARCHITECT LUCIO COSTA, WHO RELINQUISHED AUTHORSHIP TO LE CORBUSIER TO FINISH | |||||
| UBER TO CITE DE REFUGE | UBER MAP WAS NOT SHOWING ME IN THE CORRECT LOCATION; FIRST UBER DRIVER DROPPED ME; IF I DIDN’T SPEAK FRENCH, WOULD NOT HAVE BEEN ABLE TO CALL SECOND UBER DRIVER TO LET HIM KNOW WHERE I WAS, SINCE NEITHER DRIVER SPOKE ENGLISH | |||||
| VISITED CITE DE REFUGE 1933, 12 RUE CANTAGREL | INTERIOR VISIT BY APPOINTMENT; PROBABLY THE MOST SPECTACULAR BUILDING ON THE TOUR (NOT IN THE GREATEST AREA OF TOWN, THOUGH) | |||||
| UBER BACK TO HOTEL TO MEET THE GUYS | ||||||
| RODIN MUSEUM | ||||||
| UBER TO LUNCH AT FRENCHIE, 5 RUE NILE | HIGHY RECOMMENDED SPECIAL OCCASION RESTAURANT; SPECTACULAR FOOD, AMAZING STAFF | |||||
| WALK BACK TO HOTEL; DROP ZANE AT HOTEL | ||||||
| SHOW MICHAEL THE JUIF TOUR OF SAINT GERMAIN DE PRES AND FINISH TOUR | ||||||
| SAY GOOD NIGHT ANY FAREWELL TO PARIS | 43 UP ON THE ROOF, 4 RUE DANTON | 360 DEGREE VIEWS OF PARIS; ON THE ROOF OF THE HOLIDAY INN; EVEN THOUGH THE BAR DOES NOT OPEN UNTIL MAY, THE GROUND FLOOR BARTENDER OPENED THE ELEVATOR FOR US SO WE COULD GO UP- HAD THE ROOF TO OURSELVES; IF YOU’RE NOT A GUEST OF THE HOTEL, YOU NEED CLEARANCE FROM T HE GROUND FLOOR BARTENDER EVEN IN SEASON | ||||
| ADDITIONAL LE CORBUSIER SITES IN PARIS, NOT VISITED | ||||||
| 14TH | MAISON-ATELIER OZENFANT | EARLY CORBUSIER VILLA; PRIVATE RESIDENCE; NOT OPEN TO THE PUBLIC | ||||
| 14TH | MAISON PLANEIX | ANOTHER EARLY WORK; PRIVATE RESIDENCE, NOT OPEN TO THE PUBLIC | ||||
| 16TH | CITE DE L’ARCHITECTURE ET DU PATRIMOINE | FULL SCALE RECONSTRUCTION, TYPE E2 APARTMENT, UNITE D’HABITATION (MARSEILLE) | ||||
| UNBUILT LE CORBUSIER PROJECTS, PARIS | ||||||
| 3RD | PLAN VOISIN, 1925 | WOULD HAVE BULLDOZED THE MARAIS IN FAVOR OF HIS PLAN | ||||
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Episode PageCategories: Arts & Architecture, Off the Beaten Track in France, Paris